tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-42241433094834597992024-03-13T10:18:07.911-07:00The Royal RoadA guide to the Achaemenid Persian empire for reenactors, focusing on the Graeco-Persian Wars period. A quick guide to Persian history, society, religion, military, clothing and culture, plus links to reenactment groups and commemorations of the 2,500th anniversary of the Graeco-Persian Wars.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.comBlogger228125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-80736426945067375922024-01-29T14:28:00.000-08:002024-01-29T14:28:13.816-08:00Product review: Lord of Battles javelin headAnyone in the market for small javelin heads for a peltast or similar impression is not spoiled for choice at the moment. Personally I find most javelin heads are big enough to be spearheads, while large arrowheads still have small sockets that would tend to result in shafts breaking off in the socket when used as javelins (which I've unfortunately confirmed firsthand).<br /><br />If you prefer a lighter javelin and want to carry more than one or two, I believe <a href="https://lordofbattles.com/product/javelin-spearhead/">Lord of Battle's Medieval leaf-bladed javelin</a> is the best non-custom middle ground I've been able to find so far. They retail direct from the manufacturer for 24.99USD.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJb31U113M2Ve0jhNQVPZE4ZbKrtOj8pUQkP-qpYt9O-Ve-EF2bpscDGlzKr1RwAJ2NtymqaOY2IHFbWrJpCrT-njZO6LitYBEf7RSmqf22uquLwRfUoPYF5OuLjrZU-n6W1EkcJPuqxh13D4Y7oPhEHrVvF5DzweuCzBbR1FzfxuyhuQF5jWIwLpS7c0/s1200/the%20thing%20with%20three%20bonce.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJb31U113M2Ve0jhNQVPZE4ZbKrtOj8pUQkP-qpYt9O-Ve-EF2bpscDGlzKr1RwAJ2NtymqaOY2IHFbWrJpCrT-njZO6LitYBEf7RSmqf22uquLwRfUoPYF5OuLjrZU-n6W1EkcJPuqxh13D4Y7oPhEHrVvF5DzweuCzBbR1FzfxuyhuQF5jWIwLpS7c0/w400-h300/the%20thing%20with%20three%20bonce.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><i>Trio of Lord of Battles Medieval leaf-bladed javelin heads. Note the angled cut of the middle socket and the bend of the lowermost blade.</i><br /><br />I bought three late last year but have only just gotten around to reviewing them. As before, Lord of Battle's quality control isn't spectacular. Two of the points have edges that become very thick toward the point. They're not safety javelins that could be used for reenactment combat, but on the other hand they'd require a lot of sharpening to use as real weapons. The point with the thinner edges also has a blade that's slightly but obviously curved out-of-plane with the socket. I'm not sure whether I want to try bending it straight in a vise; I have no idea how hard the steel is or whether bending it cold would cause some kind of micro-damage. Lastly, one of the straight blades has a socket that's cut at a noticeable angle. The point should still be straight when installed, all other things being equal, but it's a little odd-looking and will require a little extra care if you like to cut a tenon into shafts so that the sides of the shaft are flush with the socket (the sockets are about 3/4 inch or 19mm wide on the outside). As an aside, note that the sockets all have two 1/8 inch (3.175mm) rivet holes.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSqHFAJGHqrrqWY-52MylJwIHCm5M5J84XoqI4ZjIJExGiVrwf6cqwndYRjQqStx3MDX_ci30s0UdxUXiFb3pPX09SUU3Lm-HX9tuZqypdBOV1bOOxUJQsD1xSO6RbKHK9A3SRxnvQqarGv8MiO4j2AB1Lg48efiTMSCMg8tLSvkaWdlOPVaUHuFHmMQ/s1200/comparison.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvSqHFAJGHqrrqWY-52MylJwIHCm5M5J84XoqI4ZjIJExGiVrwf6cqwndYRjQqStx3MDX_ci30s0UdxUXiFb3pPX09SUU3Lm-HX9tuZqypdBOV1bOOxUJQsD1xSO6RbKHK9A3SRxnvQqarGv8MiO4j2AB1Lg48efiTMSCMg8tLSvkaWdlOPVaUHuFHmMQ/w400-h300/comparison.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The QC is, on the other hand, better than in some of Lord of Battle's products. The blades are a more consistent shape than their older small spear/javelin heads, as you can see here, and the finish is much better, especially for the price. (The product that seems to have replaced the small spear/javelin head, the current "light" spear head, is larger than the older model and requires a thicker shaft, thus moving it out of this size category.) As for the old medium spearhead, there's no comparison.<br /><br />Size specifications: The bent point is 6-1/4 inches or just under 159mm long, has a blade 1 inch (25mm) wide, and weighs a little more than 3 ounces (85g). The one with the angled socket is 6-5/16 inches (160mm) measured from one side and 6-3/8 inches (162mm) from the other, 15/16 inch (just under 24mm) wide, and weighs about 3-1/2 ounces (99g). The last one is 6-5/16 inches long, 1 inch wide, and weighs a bit more than 3-1/2 ounces. All three have sockets with an inner diameter of 5/8 inch (just under 16mm).<br /><br />On the whole, I would give this one a tentative recommendation; it's far from perfect but it's still decent, and I don't know of any other small javelin head that won't run you the price of custom metalwork.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-43788802047010994292023-09-13T15:42:00.001-07:002023-09-13T15:42:21.810-07:003D reconstruction of Salt Man 4's clothingStumbled across this on Google recently: <a href="https://www.artstation.com/artwork/ZeqXDN">Salt Man 4 (405-380 BCE): computer reconstruction of clothes and accessories</a>. This reconstruction by Aleksei Moskvin provides a much clearer view of many details that might be difficult to interpret for those of us who can only look at the mummy through the odd online photograph. Of note:<br /><br />- The mummy wears a round cloak similar to those sported by Cappadocians in the Persepolis reliefs, but it's made of animal fur and is fastened with cords at the neck instead of a fibula.<br /><br />- The tunic is woven in a single cross-shaped piece, including the sleeves, then stitched along the undersides of the sleeves and down the sides of the body. Its neckline is straight, not round, and is quite wide. Its body is also wide and not flared.<br /><br />- The trousers have a lot of extra fabric between the legs. This makes a lot of sense if you keep in mind that they were developed for riding horses; this cut would ensure that no seams are strained and busted when sitting astride the horse.<br /><br />- The sash appears to have weights sewn into the ends. Other details throws all my old ideas about how the sash was constructed into doubt.<br /><br />- The mummy had a pair of small clay pots tied to the belt by cords looped tightly below the rims of the pots' openings.<br /><br />- A knife in a curved sheath was also tied to the belt, which I had not noticed before, but I'm pleased to see that it's more-or-less in keeping with the way I wore my knife at Marathon 2015 and Plataea.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-27862767179696807182023-08-25T06:40:00.000-07:002023-08-25T06:40:14.823-07:00"Bows and Spears in Achaemenid Persia" by James White<p>I recently came across <a href="https://escholarship.org/uc/item/9819d1v6">James White's 2019 dissertation</a> for UC Santa Barbara at eScholarship. It is, as the name indicates, an overview of what's known and indicated from archaeological, artistic and literary sources about Achaemenid bows and spears. I haven't read the whole thing yet, but it appears to be very informative; at the very least it's a good index of sources.<br /></p>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-3975089412175731032023-03-07T08:06:00.002-08:002023-03-07T08:06:38.439-08:00Making a round pelta from a wicker chargerFor Plataea 2022 I found myself without as many shields as I wanted to bring, so at the last minute I threw one of these together. I don't know that this specific pattern is approved of by any formal reenacting group; it's difficult to document round peltai, although I am assured that they existed, and willow would be a more authentic material. The difference in materials may affect the appearance: This type of coiled weave is most commonly made of rattan because its growth pattern results in very long pieces of even thickness, whereas willow wicker is more often a 90-degree over and under weave, or has the warp sticks radiating outward from the middle. Several pieces of admittedly vague period art suggest the over-and-under weave. The advantage of using a premade round wicker charger is that it's a very quick and easy build.<br /><br />My forearm measures 14 inches or 35.6cm with my fist closed, so the largest size that this style of platter was made in, around 16 inches/40.6cm, is just barely large enough to make a shield that gives a little bit of overhang. If your forearms are any larger, this project may not be for you.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi_906AS-sMCMxSfLwDbM0INlh0uLKQIjBwP-5WcXqSfERKERmGqJFz4XyqqTpiDd_T6IbTKmo0c-jJABbPyYEzCUjeDqY36Z-7XWLQdVFCBPbpV88X5qPNTeCQO09caFhiAYRUoSzJW48mRwDiU4eF9RRuTLAic2UID_Jvd1hF83Xn3yQtJTOWa1l/s1200/materials.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi_906AS-sMCMxSfLwDbM0INlh0uLKQIjBwP-5WcXqSfERKERmGqJFz4XyqqTpiDd_T6IbTKmo0c-jJABbPyYEzCUjeDqY36Z-7XWLQdVFCBPbpV88X5qPNTeCQO09caFhiAYRUoSzJW48mRwDiU4eF9RRuTLAic2UID_Jvd1hF83Xn3yQtJTOWa1l/w400-h300/materials.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Materials:<br />- 16-inch rattan charger for the shield core<br />I got my first one from Pier 1 Imports several years ago; they no longer carry them, but similar ones can be obtained from other sellers or on eBay. Make sure it is real rattan, since not only are some made from artificial rattan, but many sellers also use a shotgun approach to labeling and add "rattan" to listings for platters that are really made of straw, seagrass, corn husks or other flimsy materials, on the assumption that they're interchangeable for most uses and someone looking for one will be satisfied with another. Additionally, some are made from a mixture of materials, such as rattan coiling held together with seagrass; this is, again, fine if you're just using it as a platter, but not so much for a shield.<br />- Leather for the facing<br />The leather should be light- to midweight (about 2-5oz.); it should be soft but have minimal stretch. Rawhide may or may not be the most authentic material (certainly I would prefer it over a planked base), but as a wrapped facing it's tricky to work with. I'm instead using a smoke-colored bison split, which I originally ordered from Crazy Crow for my bowcase last year but which turned out to be on backorder and arrived later — I wouldn't have liked the lack of elasticity for that purpose, but here it seems preferable, as it'll remain more-or-less taut on the shield instead of sagging with time. The piece you use should be at least 18-19 inches (45.7-48.3cm) in every direction and free of holes (or you can patch up any holes).<br />- Material for the knuckle pad and grip wrap<br />I'm using German buckskin scraps for this purpose, but I imagine chamois in multiple layers or on top of felt, wool roving, etc. would also work. Soft felt might also be sufficient all on its own.<br />- Leather bands for the grips<br />Like the facing, these shouldn't be elastic; you don't want the grips to loosen with use (although I could conceive of various lacing systems to use if they do). The current suede bands sold by Michael's are stiffer than they used to be and just barely adequate; luckily I have some leftover pieces of the older, more pliable kind. You'll need upwards of two feet/61cm.<br />- Stitching materials<br />You could probably get by with just a three- or five-ply linen cord, but I'm using several different materials of different thicknesses because I have them on hand and it seems to work better that way. These include buttonweight linen thread for the grip wrap and knuckle pad, three- and five-ply cord for attaching the grips and pad to the shield core, and hemp twine for the facing. The twine should be the soft type. I happened to have some leftover from making my new bowcase which I'd already run over a block of beeswax, making it firmer and less prone to fraying. I do the same with the fil au chinois thread, although it's supposed to be lightly waxed already. Unpaid plug: I very much prefer Crazy Crow linen cord over the kind sold at craft stores; it's much stronger, which is important in this project.<br />- A heavy sewing needle, large sharp scissors, pliers, an awl, leather punch and pen; also a needle file and a pair of nail scissors. The permanent marker shown here didn't wind up coming into play this time.<br /><br />A flat shield with no boss cutout will always result in some part of your hand and possibly arm rubbing against the shield's back. In tests I found that the long muscles on the back of the forearm provided a kind of padding on their own (it helps that I normally wear long sleeves), but for the wrist and knuckles, with their bones just below the skin, the chafing was very unpleasant. Therefore a small pad of soft material is helpful. If your skin is sensitive (and especially if you're wearing a short-sleeved or sleeveless tunic) or your forearm is on the bony side, then a longer strip of leather or even a long pad may be necessary.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyzpd5xdGKcQEm-WUFBj7FRiScp8s9nefXhhLEvTPhaCw6JUHtsxiWO0J2SD7RFEMyweS4R6FrYUwCQDJuLVcPYXxlkWCPuKJk8q8x-lf-T3hfJnrEGiDIasaDLCC-Liil-7pJNbMzDi_M3Tk8RAz2_0d6zelGcKSn9DxfDk-zpJb25dtR70Bje-HL/s1200/measure.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyzpd5xdGKcQEm-WUFBj7FRiScp8s9nefXhhLEvTPhaCw6JUHtsxiWO0J2SD7RFEMyweS4R6FrYUwCQDJuLVcPYXxlkWCPuKJk8q8x-lf-T3hfJnrEGiDIasaDLCC-Liil-7pJNbMzDi_M3Tk8RAz2_0d6zelGcKSn9DxfDk-zpJb25dtR70Bje-HL/w400-h300/measure.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Since the knuckle pad is attached first, you might as well make it first. I made mine about 5 inches long and 3.5 inches wide across the middle (12.7x8.9cm), slightly tapering in width. There are two outer layers and two smaller inner layers to fill it out, around a quarter inch smaller all around, i.e. half an inch (12.7mm) narrower and shorter.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhukaZJMjmT60tXPLkQRRp3yOyRVDS-VGLEtS7IAJDXvtuaKoC4mZEZ5RDTVOd2igEkER9PGNdoxvoPQL1fw-723OEC2GniYmptkDukpN7lrCz5zWdfjIyuk8BYNNPuJj47BcTSUepfETyfTeLYN1Op2CMzGeZYCXu0k0UkSDfh8i71LUREI7azuJC0/s1200/pad%20completed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhukaZJMjmT60tXPLkQRRp3yOyRVDS-VGLEtS7IAJDXvtuaKoC4mZEZ5RDTVOd2igEkER9PGNdoxvoPQL1fw-723OEC2GniYmptkDukpN7lrCz5zWdfjIyuk8BYNNPuJj47BcTSUepfETyfTeLYN1Op2CMzGeZYCXu0k0UkSDfh8i71LUREI7azuJC0/w400-h300/pad%20completed.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Only the outer layers need to be stitched; either a running or whip stitch will work. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYYmQ-1UfXwLZnHbaUjFGzW3sgQBzTMaKPtoRa6mOVpYxTPzViLchwTL39HVLvYs65DxoRisC6zWrJeoKCszLE_ePs9N29X1n63nj1nbt6mjq2Cf4Y9uqhwB4gz_7WBhPkLe5HEXxxd41WaFFrRpshcDpJVZFEAvLCds4ne_1urweTz16xSpz0V0RG/s1200/pad%20stitching.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYYmQ-1UfXwLZnHbaUjFGzW3sgQBzTMaKPtoRa6mOVpYxTPzViLchwTL39HVLvYs65DxoRisC6zWrJeoKCszLE_ePs9N29X1n63nj1nbt6mjq2Cf4Y9uqhwB4gz_7WBhPkLe5HEXxxd41WaFFrRpshcDpJVZFEAvLCds4ne_1urweTz16xSpz0V0RG/w400-h300/pad%20stitching.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The pad is stitched to the core by its four corners, with the wide end about an inch from the edge and the small end pointing toward the middle of the shield. On the first corner I used five-ply linen cord, but this was difficult to get through the pad without enlarging the stitch holes. Since the pad is never really subjected to stresses that could result in it being pulled loose, I switched to three-ply cord for the remaining corners.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAOFbL05FrnT1_4kxJL_NDlG7rap08O0wpdIXuidD8rth-Wjcmec5pDOWbyl0aC5rYmtVL_h-FpQ0t7pmiaCgFW62_5FXTd2_bBnzgSfmSmFpOK0P-t-XbjeIlkLlSDZcYP754lnhRD97pvt72kyXPCyBH1kuur2n4zXofzKforoJNrkKe4-zh-rEa/s1200/finding%20the%20path.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAOFbL05FrnT1_4kxJL_NDlG7rap08O0wpdIXuidD8rth-Wjcmec5pDOWbyl0aC5rYmtVL_h-FpQ0t7pmiaCgFW62_5FXTd2_bBnzgSfmSmFpOK0P-t-XbjeIlkLlSDZcYP754lnhRD97pvt72kyXPCyBH1kuur2n4zXofzKforoJNrkKe4-zh-rEa/w400-h300/finding%20the%20path.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Getting the needle between the canes without breaking the thin connecting strips is tricky and I frequently had to peer through it at a light bulb to figure out a clear path, poke a pin through to see where the needle should be coming out on the other side, then use pliers to yank the needle through. This is also where the Crazy Crow linen cord shines, as a poorer-quality cord is more likely to fray and break when subjected to this stress (which happened repeatedly when I was making the one I took to Plataea).<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEa8yT32FC1QiwyQvbjVqjpw_9U1xLK_DX-ODnpHg1GKNZVV3GNUMuYivX9nTdLr9XJIkoTpq-Iuwm7oeMaiFCgtoAiGkP60CzeZvCb5BrsZs2B4jnqHuZ8K4WAbFj_7KrW9DT7IwlkHjrGgaBJbbePQMS-Nzhgt1Lf41q_4Aw2wkwrqhmWGbC8u1o/s1200/holepunched.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEa8yT32FC1QiwyQvbjVqjpw_9U1xLK_DX-ODnpHg1GKNZVV3GNUMuYivX9nTdLr9XJIkoTpq-Iuwm7oeMaiFCgtoAiGkP60CzeZvCb5BrsZs2B4jnqHuZ8K4WAbFj_7KrW9DT7IwlkHjrGgaBJbbePQMS-Nzhgt1Lf41q_4Aw2wkwrqhmWGbC8u1o/w400-h300/holepunched.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The grip is about a 7.5-inch (19cm) suede band with a tube of German buckskin whipstitched around it. I don't have any evidence about how these grips were made, but this design is much more comfortable than a flat leather band with nothing covering it. The stitch holes are all punched ahead of time.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9IuLxFTYdtFyq40Jxz72iLq2aYk4EvwKQbvrOJxWc51sxulZRVi6MPsgRx_ZKnTHMmMWXSHrXOwGO2f1o9krdNYKUJ-Bk5OEO91YNQ8q3hyW9pdl_LakuIKMBOCixY2WUDb3hWu3eJ4KpIt2gJqgQR3XuhwQyRsZWQ_mQudZKybKF6JZwkkljat-V/s1200/spiral%20stitching.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9IuLxFTYdtFyq40Jxz72iLq2aYk4EvwKQbvrOJxWc51sxulZRVi6MPsgRx_ZKnTHMmMWXSHrXOwGO2f1o9krdNYKUJ-Bk5OEO91YNQ8q3hyW9pdl_LakuIKMBOCixY2WUDb3hWu3eJ4KpIt2gJqgQR3XuhwQyRsZWQ_mQudZKybKF6JZwkkljat-V/w300-h400/spiral%20stitching.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>Then the thread spirals through the holes.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_8M4dGoLmP6-xEaNETedg--YC0qCPh5ZG6XuNr8r9IAe0OSW016wgVr8NrhcMkislbLa-0JinMqWcd7Wb0Q15_VX7tkNsNOi04R0QfBOGbCuhcXdJza8fYP8x1Dml4ae6Eye5C0lVqnlXWQ5iD3NLE5buIzPR5hnd6HefPsK7ivFNbLXsTGxmt8y/s1200/double%20back.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq_8M4dGoLmP6-xEaNETedg--YC0qCPh5ZG6XuNr8r9IAe0OSW016wgVr8NrhcMkislbLa-0JinMqWcd7Wb0Q15_VX7tkNsNOi04R0QfBOGbCuhcXdJza8fYP8x1Dml4ae6Eye5C0lVqnlXWQ5iD3NLE5buIzPR5hnd6HefPsK7ivFNbLXsTGxmt8y/w300-h400/double%20back.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>When it's time to double back, even if you can't find the exit hole with the needle, the German buckskin is soft enough that as long as you find approximately the right spot, you can punch through with the needle itself.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2K-JhCTYvF90HsmK9mqmO_nlUoe841nrDUEpgTCw2WT8AwZ3RNJghiufJ9b4xJ6_i08HY4jyQ4O_7cQb8-0_8SKXRO6G9CvhqXIdQ_XEf8Qe35RyuLwAHyknKRXqOJmj4SNfYHvXhDO78GMYtqW6RL3ejAIi7g6W-GYhkVsDMhYLKQ2EYzy-w_eT-/s1200/hiding%20ends.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2K-JhCTYvF90HsmK9mqmO_nlUoe841nrDUEpgTCw2WT8AwZ3RNJghiufJ9b4xJ6_i08HY4jyQ4O_7cQb8-0_8SKXRO6G9CvhqXIdQ_XEf8Qe35RyuLwAHyknKRXqOJmj4SNfYHvXhDO78GMYtqW6RL3ejAIi7g6W-GYhkVsDMhYLKQ2EYzy-w_eT-/w400-h300/hiding%20ends.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Finally, knot the thread, then run it over and under the stitches a couple times to keep it safely tucked away.<br /><br />I had instructions prepared about how to find and mark where the bands should be stitched, but with this dark stained wicker, it would be barely if at all visible. That's why the permanent marker you see in the materials layout is going by the wayside. Instead, since the last shield's grip and arm bands fit me well, I just copied the layout from there. For me this wound up with the inner ends of the bands being three inches from the middle and four inches apart, and the outer ends being six inches from the middle and four and a half inches apart. If your arms are of different proportions, then of course you'll need a different fit.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuAYDD8M3I5BCLkg4VRlO5G7nt2ikXTw2N70YaV9aSNG9217O_I4nEiL8ygzju29CuKiF9Vbyysm84tWd_yCZsleHnc84Yp9PIT3pZfgPv8oRzTJ-KBLFL1HUlbH-S_m_7_Z5Qt6T8romVb0JtEqpBFa-tcuoN3H7KHnljBmFql_VnzcxAtZziKFVJ/s1200/tightness%20measuring.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuAYDD8M3I5BCLkg4VRlO5G7nt2ikXTw2N70YaV9aSNG9217O_I4nEiL8ygzju29CuKiF9Vbyysm84tWd_yCZsleHnc84Yp9PIT3pZfgPv8oRzTJ-KBLFL1HUlbH-S_m_7_Z5Qt6T8romVb0JtEqpBFa-tcuoN3H7KHnljBmFql_VnzcxAtZziKFVJ/w400-h300/tightness%20measuring.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Check the length of the grip. It should hold your hand firmly against the knuckle pad (so it should be stitched right up against the edges, preventing your hand from sliding down onto the bare wicker) but not pinch your hand uncomfortably.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7AlkOvDOOfkUhDIO1Kpy_9Od03Om2BfM_ParghwuSFXGsMK-VPm9wuxGgeIi0piZf8JASDBr3Hgqasic8_yHGamBx0J2l87bbZZOwRwN4ByWZqvIsa5VNrF2LAHb8RDqo5fNslFl3UN8yU8onfl815O4nV-9N9fVeN088deVnKU74JUwThlKLN-pa/s1200/enlarging%20holes.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7AlkOvDOOfkUhDIO1Kpy_9Od03Om2BfM_ParghwuSFXGsMK-VPm9wuxGgeIi0piZf8JASDBr3Hgqasic8_yHGamBx0J2l87bbZZOwRwN4ByWZqvIsa5VNrF2LAHb8RDqo5fNslFl3UN8yU8onfl815O4nV-9N9fVeN088deVnKU74JUwThlKLN-pa/w400-h300/enlarging%20holes.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Because the bands, unlike the knuckle pad, are placed under stress that could bust the stitching, I'm used the full five-ply linen cord to attach them. The holes all had to be enlarged with a needle file. The smallest setting of the leather punch might also work.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-V6tY01O8oZR2H32CeWC_rByi6PZMlfHE7d6tY2-ERLxMr1WYbPxm7n9tolpt24wxgNdO1UVC5q6sX5Bdv5QaqKgUz8-XLld5uU46Fs3H9R2HMqImc5kiSglHHUx52wyCyUIcGjaalc3WcLFG-cpROjeYiC79-GlLyJbB8dBcMkTDv79Kpzqpa07/s1200/lay%20out.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2-V6tY01O8oZR2H32CeWC_rByi6PZMlfHE7d6tY2-ERLxMr1WYbPxm7n9tolpt24wxgNdO1UVC5q6sX5Bdv5QaqKgUz8-XLld5uU46Fs3H9R2HMqImc5kiSglHHUx52wyCyUIcGjaalc3WcLFG-cpROjeYiC79-GlLyJbB8dBcMkTDv79Kpzqpa07/w400-h300/lay%20out.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Put the facing leather, "wrong" (flesh or stringy/unevenly-finished) side up, on a flat surface and put the shield core on it.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfglEVIGroF15CgpovtkPi07R228XZgm1G4cBgKlRoeBM_4rDfuoL_4a_H2gchhbHsRYaJdYBudPc1w25yeoWuXXkjt2eDIStrN4vxjtEgTCYaa81ntetBS1I3_XKbponuu-H6JxNnucoE4eVnF8i-1Zco8nNwIxH4gDXmiOW0iwQhTP3Pm_MkFH26/s1200/a%20little%20smaller.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfglEVIGroF15CgpovtkPi07R228XZgm1G4cBgKlRoeBM_4rDfuoL_4a_H2gchhbHsRYaJdYBudPc1w25yeoWuXXkjt2eDIStrN4vxjtEgTCYaa81ntetBS1I3_XKbponuu-H6JxNnucoE4eVnF8i-1Zco8nNwIxH4gDXmiOW0iwQhTP3Pm_MkFH26/w400-h300/a%20little%20smaller.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I initially planned on adding an inch and a half to wrap around. I later revised this to one inch, but if you lace the facing on instead of stitching it, a wider margin may be preferable to ensure that the facing can never be peeled off without undoing or cutting the lacing first.<br /><br />I chose to lace rather than stitch for expediency's sake because this leather is very tough and the wicker is very tight, but I suspect stitching may be more authentic, as peltai in art usually have a line just inside the edge suggesting either stitching or an added rim. I also suspect stitching would keep the facing tighter against the shield.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL9HH2HDePN7a6NNL8vihpX7X50724tJyy7i2gOalhr7foKOaLr3m55_-QR5u_z9Fg-6wc6m3mdJloTgXLV4k2GY5s66-7MqKH-z021cxbOCgdRaCsokTjHp97RxbIvUYgnSaGett87-WU2-sVYZ54aYHjrki0gA-xqFSASodKgmJ_gDT3-oKd-vMg/s1200/margin%20measure.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL9HH2HDePN7a6NNL8vihpX7X50724tJyy7i2gOalhr7foKOaLr3m55_-QR5u_z9Fg-6wc6m3mdJloTgXLV4k2GY5s66-7MqKH-z021cxbOCgdRaCsokTjHp97RxbIvUYgnSaGett87-WU2-sVYZ54aYHjrki0gA-xqFSASodKgmJ_gDT3-oKd-vMg/w400-h300/margin%20measure.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9mcGiedFlYztvtTc1FKKv-d0smj5ZOXWHH3emFFglo4ivygBEhCn_BMCGHjC_bTr85nhjV_1KS8-FrAO5F0bOl7UjY5XrOYRCXPYgy-yUEH2CIkPrM0uAHOrxfTN_P1DvrtWejrhmdo6OuHkMCi91bln3G9z7aA-ktMyMB98B3HgXepAKf5_bj2oL/s1200/margin%20marking.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9mcGiedFlYztvtTc1FKKv-d0smj5ZOXWHH3emFFglo4ivygBEhCn_BMCGHjC_bTr85nhjV_1KS8-FrAO5F0bOl7UjY5XrOYRCXPYgy-yUEH2CIkPrM0uAHOrxfTN_P1DvrtWejrhmdo6OuHkMCi91bln3G9z7aA-ktMyMB98B3HgXepAKf5_bj2oL/w400-h300/margin%20marking.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The margin can be easily marked by first measuring and adding a series of dashes and then connecting them.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEnXNrSlDHcUP5kjsAc7IvKVpWAI6_yeblGAsIKf8PSL8fBzLBGG7Go0ybbkCCkx0yGKNHRJ-tVnA4pJ-TFZi81qNMnvDajJUdqCrafOpOumUMb2oVkXFRkb4hycffHfKFHYGorQwfvN0Ssy5Zal-i8RtUqqzW5ZcQsEllYU2NAEwXF237ukks6YX4/s1200/tabs.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEnXNrSlDHcUP5kjsAc7IvKVpWAI6_yeblGAsIKf8PSL8fBzLBGG7Go0ybbkCCkx0yGKNHRJ-tVnA4pJ-TFZi81qNMnvDajJUdqCrafOpOumUMb2oVkXFRkb4hycffHfKFHYGorQwfvN0Ssy5Zal-i8RtUqqzW5ZcQsEllYU2NAEwXF237ukks6YX4/w400-h300/tabs.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Next, mark segments along the circle separated by narrow triangles that point about an inch (2.5cm) toward the middle. I'm antsy and decided to be formulaic about it, but the exact width of the segments and triangles isn't important. In this case I wound up with 40 segments of mostly an inch on the outer edges (except the last couple, which were narrower), separated by triangles of about 3/8 inch wide and 5/8 inch long. This leaves plenty of room for two holes in each tab.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLuMcVfh_ILgFbMzzOxtl4WlFfMyOaWHA_S1r0Ez6zRUFX1Ys12KmDV9c1tgtbNnFO_LVz9Yd2ufRoJe_E-HFPhLcI-ufmco-vOeNOIei-r2vzoCE6-XQxiWa1wd06XwSmptjI0SxCiA_y9AoBu6O6Hyu1MiIPUnOuxsCF4qe8QOrhxunwGlpxvmkO/s1200/tab%20holes.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLuMcVfh_ILgFbMzzOxtl4WlFfMyOaWHA_S1r0Ez6zRUFX1Ys12KmDV9c1tgtbNnFO_LVz9Yd2ufRoJe_E-HFPhLcI-ufmco-vOeNOIei-r2vzoCE6-XQxiWa1wd06XwSmptjI0SxCiA_y9AoBu6O6Hyu1MiIPUnOuxsCF4qe8QOrhxunwGlpxvmkO/w400-h300/tab%20holes.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The hemp twine is the thickest stitching material, so I punched small holes with the leather punch rather than the awl (which would require tediously enlarging them with a larger awl or the needle file). The punch doesn't fully remove the plugs of leather; I pushed them out with the needle file and then cut off each one with the nail scissors.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIkn5WW8Yqr2SOdRO55o2v-m82yJeId0UDM83iHDqZMfUN0SShsqiITciiUhQWEstHT3lUBgawbtI125ZHBBJ-3vwSCcpI6XspvPyN3BXbhjC-JmUx8E7DYGyn9Tpo5lMQKTMTg3XQVvUNu2LfbE1BDVRjoSmK6VknwDX6y0IHdK5GI8xrQPZwNu7/s1200/final%20step.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidIkn5WW8Yqr2SOdRO55o2v-m82yJeId0UDM83iHDqZMfUN0SShsqiITciiUhQWEstHT3lUBgawbtI125ZHBBJ-3vwSCcpI6XspvPyN3BXbhjC-JmUx8E7DYGyn9Tpo5lMQKTMTg3XQVvUNu2LfbE1BDVRjoSmK6VknwDX6y0IHdK5GI8xrQPZwNu7/w400-h300/final%20step.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Cut out the triangles. You're now ready for the final step; this is the last chance to decide whether to stitch or lace.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8m4zfrQH9n1otfLbveHnqBGg17LpPS3zPYUpR87quPcSionVe_yP9rtDAGwT0jQ8KxRtwA5NBVxi_kdG8BuF3YneHUKy5j6zvk_d9jrf77bf61EdX3DH5Dij4Mat26sfeZ4BzzLX5aAtZENDikkgsi6lJoKoW58jDGosunhcpgSsrA6k3YG_5Ln7k/s1200/lacing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8m4zfrQH9n1otfLbveHnqBGg17LpPS3zPYUpR87quPcSionVe_yP9rtDAGwT0jQ8KxRtwA5NBVxi_kdG8BuF3YneHUKy5j6zvk_d9jrf77bf61EdX3DH5Dij4Mat26sfeZ4BzzLX5aAtZENDikkgsi6lJoKoW58jDGosunhcpgSsrA6k3YG_5Ln7k/w400-h300/lacing.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Since I'm lacing, all that needs to be done is run the cord under the middle of each tab and on top of the edges. This will help hold the corners down.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-sxPz6xISk2i666DP8t9zse_aLZapXlRiT3RaVgPOn7LBVOnBGspqXAlx6P3fWErvjX6ncE1PVJmCeBAdaDtctY1PDgeLEId4_i9NxM4gE2nlXznoKWG5P_ewFYeDYxqj58KaguCfjPOMLT3wyvGjJN-BRNe9IZDreI8ueNuPGi6mjH5cxN9kdegX/s1200/tightening%20lace.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-sxPz6xISk2i666DP8t9zse_aLZapXlRiT3RaVgPOn7LBVOnBGspqXAlx6P3fWErvjX6ncE1PVJmCeBAdaDtctY1PDgeLEId4_i9NxM4gE2nlXznoKWG5P_ewFYeDYxqj58KaguCfjPOMLT3wyvGjJN-BRNe9IZDreI8ueNuPGi6mjH5cxN9kdegX/w300-h400/tightening%20lace.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>With the twine well-waxed, it can be tightened through multiple holes at once by just pulling on one end, which will cause the tabs to pull up and around the edge of the charger.<br /><br />Pull the twine as tight as possible all around while smoothing the facing onto the back to make sure it's taut. It won't be perfect, and will bag slightly when you hold the shield face-down, but do the best you can.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFp3R_RENFiCq42W97W3mqpVK8-GoYM_s6UYhJSJuga7ArsLlSoOC1QOAIuQ6eUsxhteRU5AVcmFFqLb_Piyux5zydF5Sy_Dp-F1UMS8TJ6JYvMkFw-SkMRJiOBFImew7277UFyN8r17BAYAYmskDh_wljEyPuayMILkKl1MIROpVU6hqXQc0gqEgk/s1200/tying%20lace.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFp3R_RENFiCq42W97W3mqpVK8-GoYM_s6UYhJSJuga7ArsLlSoOC1QOAIuQ6eUsxhteRU5AVcmFFqLb_Piyux5zydF5Sy_Dp-F1UMS8TJ6JYvMkFw-SkMRJiOBFImew7277UFyN8r17BAYAYmskDh_wljEyPuayMILkKl1MIROpVU6hqXQc0gqEgk/w400-h300/tying%20lace.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Begin to tie the twine while continuing to tighten it. Knot the twine under the tabs for a tidy appearance.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRmwL1_LgOLlktPeq3WgueVeyYB35qG7d0Ivt8epvyumEpDAJ0skGuaVqKj-1olXWIfsZP95qQmF3cdxBbXfd-W88JMHNQxAHJcxh-6MA_HmShyPjotW8gfqZy_1HxIaQ-UHrOJmV_IjHw-3kcZ1xEOBd1TDnZPBKu2698QrtWnuon3jFZ7sFKYHqA/s1200/hiding%20lace.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRmwL1_LgOLlktPeq3WgueVeyYB35qG7d0Ivt8epvyumEpDAJ0skGuaVqKj-1olXWIfsZP95qQmF3cdxBbXfd-W88JMHNQxAHJcxh-6MA_HmShyPjotW8gfqZy_1HxIaQ-UHrOJmV_IjHw-3kcZ1xEOBd1TDnZPBKu2698QrtWnuon3jFZ7sFKYHqA/w400-h300/hiding%20lace.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Once everything is as tight as possible, knot the twine a few more times.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA_TTPo1K5__F0iRe6FyYk_GDeV82O3zkRgQfbQpk_bMbItzB6r6R3wJj6Vvvli1MG6bg7pJTpsEMdasf--bCDY2cEQgs26uoxpv1XaqCVNYr8zK9R_9uq4dgYxngNH_3OC0xDQ-p_RASCznVqUGp9mqMPTurtFlf-I4qNRplMRV0vRUvCbQ0cVwmU/s1200/hidden%20lace.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA_TTPo1K5__F0iRe6FyYk_GDeV82O3zkRgQfbQpk_bMbItzB6r6R3wJj6Vvvli1MG6bg7pJTpsEMdasf--bCDY2cEQgs26uoxpv1XaqCVNYr8zK9R_9uq4dgYxngNH_3OC0xDQ-p_RASCznVqUGp9mqMPTurtFlf-I4qNRplMRV0vRUvCbQ0cVwmU/w400-h300/hidden%20lace.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The knot's trailing ends can now be tucked under the tabs.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEcDSKfSKHIv1X17DZj-cs7eBCViLda-69qy4E8m1eJhEZ6nKG1T8IjJbBO2h4E9pv4Pn48louK-aLXVuIT589w8Hn2CcYwInbXzkQ2P5bsLQkuV-2ce01EmH-DSVfuLD5LN17hC5kkiHaukPfqi1dTnXNaXbDtVw126s1kdCELWrx5CmAKIKRf3m/s1200/painting.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfEcDSKfSKHIv1X17DZj-cs7eBCViLda-69qy4E8m1eJhEZ6nKG1T8IjJbBO2h4E9pv4Pn48louK-aLXVuIT589w8Hn2CcYwInbXzkQ2P5bsLQkuV-2ce01EmH-DSVfuLD5LN17hC5kkiHaukPfqi1dTnXNaXbDtVw126s1kdCELWrx5CmAKIKRf3m/w400-h300/painting.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>At this point the shield is technically finished. You can paint it however you like or leave it plain. On suede leather, oil paint (with perhaps a little beeswax to keep it from becoming brittle) adheres well enough, though it needs to be rubbed in. It will take a long time to cure, however. The one you see here was painted in the days before Plataea 2022 and required fast-drying acrylic to be ready on time.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jjz9M9pkUtKWvP2osOlz88kp0nqzkK8hBym9NvoGqz8JUvNo2gV7FiNFrm4wAB8yNpALTcRyMSqS7xlvrqPUuDbs3ZYCOhM6WMbyA1IFYunaYTBoQ9GtRAM36AJl74yZFJf0PhJoT2QQAegK5IIjXUO-zKpVP_aDiFWEXdP2hlAf3sGwSKZ7DNUV/s1200/utility.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5jjz9M9pkUtKWvP2osOlz88kp0nqzkK8hBym9NvoGqz8JUvNo2gV7FiNFrm4wAB8yNpALTcRyMSqS7xlvrqPUuDbs3ZYCOhM6WMbyA1IFYunaYTBoQ9GtRAM36AJl74yZFJf0PhJoT2QQAegK5IIjXUO-zKpVP_aDiFWEXdP2hlAf3sGwSKZ7DNUV/w300-h400/utility.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>The shield weighs next to nothing. Together with its small size and thin grip, it leaves your left arm almost as free as if you weren't carrying one at all. This does come at a cost, though: A shield like this needs to be actively used to intercept and deflect. I think it's safe to say that taking the full shock of repeated heavy blows will break it apart in no time.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-42164188005201418512023-02-14T10:27:00.001-08:002023-02-14T10:27:20.099-08:00An Achaemenid round shield?<p>Several years ago, Nadeem at Eran ud Turan shared this <a href="https://twitter.com/eranudturan/status/1277637593094643715/photo/2">ceramic horse and rider</a> from the Pergamon Museum, Berlin, and I've been wondering about it ever since. The rider bears a round shield with a boss — something I have never seen in any other Achaemenid context. I haven't even seen a domed Achaemenid boss outside of antique dealer websites, which I don't put any stock in prima facie since they are usually lacking evidence for how such objects are dated. I've sent a message to the museum asking them for further information; in the meantime, we can only speculate. Domed round shields have been or could be made of wood, leather, rawhide, wicker, and spiraled cane. If the shape of the board is merely an artistic compromise to prevent the ceramic from being too easily broken, but the real thing was flat, then it could also be made from vertical stickwork. None of these possibilities preclude a boss made from a different material.<br /></p>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-80381288843716276282022-09-04T07:01:00.002-07:002022-09-04T07:03:31.197-07:00Retailer assessment: Baird BrothersIn the runup to Plataea 2022, I found myself in need of several spear handles. Ten years ago, the cheapest way to get one in the U.S. would've been to order a six-foot tool handle. Unfortunately, the mail-order market for these appears to be a mess right now, for many reasons I won't go into. With time running short, I capitulated and ordered from <a href="https://www.bairdbrothers.com/default.aspx">Baird Brothers</a>, a U.S.-based retailer of various wood products. (Their page for wood dowels is listed under Mouldings. <a href="https://www.bairdbrothers.com/Hardwood-Dowel-Rod-C95.aspx">Here's a direct link</a>.)<br /><br />The advantages Baird Brothers offer include a good stock, a wide selection of genera (including favorites like ash and hickory), and a wide selection of sizes - you can order dowels up to 12 feet long, and anything up to eight feet can ship by parcel carrier. They also offer many increments of thickness. On paper, they are perfect for our needs.<br /><br />There are two drawbacks: First, shipping is rather steep - my order of four ash dowels for spear handles and a smaller one for a javelin totaled just over $60 and cost more than half that much to ship. (On the plus side, delivery to my address in Pennsylvania was pretty quick.) Second, the company will not select for straightness of grain, not even for an additional charge.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1xxDLsiqGkkqwR40UAjAD2v_Io_QavkafFnYfahVdilwpNlM5OV0iyDBxQ9QycTcnggdMEwpmanRXA0TV417HM3rF7RNLjMqXpp2CArPLyxd5Y4rv2ucndSdQTXrTe712DhTw-B4SieNgxu61r20zZ3rbdS4ocFanV3fMy4u_lHf5x3OpfofwfHxe/s1200/0526221558a.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1xxDLsiqGkkqwR40UAjAD2v_Io_QavkafFnYfahVdilwpNlM5OV0iyDBxQ9QycTcnggdMEwpmanRXA0TV417HM3rF7RNLjMqXpp2CArPLyxd5Y4rv2ucndSdQTXrTe712DhTw-B4SieNgxu61r20zZ3rbdS4ocFanV3fMy4u_lHf5x3OpfofwfHxe/w400-h300/0526221558a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>This is the result. The small dowel and three of the large
ones were fine. The last one had extremely diagonal grain in the first and last third. This goes far beyond the usual runout seen in cheap tool
handles. A dowel like this is liable to break
if subjected to stress. For the price, one in five pieces turning out
to be a dud is very disappointing. Luckily I still had the handle I'd
gotten from Torrington to swap out for it.<br /><br />Would I recommend
Baird Brothers or buy from them again? Probably - but only because I
can't seem to find any other choices in the continental U.S. that aren't more
inconvenient. You can buy tools and learn to make your own or modify the commonly-sold ash spear handles that are too thick, pay even higher prices for martial arts fighting staves, or take a chance with Baird.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-68394933567860065192022-08-03T06:49:00.000-07:002022-08-03T06:49:05.490-07:00Various practical addenda from Plataea 2022<p>Well, Plataea 2022 ended on Saturday and although there's a lot to be said, I'm limiting myself to some observations to bear in mind about all the stuff I brought out there:<br /><br />- A four-inch-wide (internal), eight-foot-long PVC pipe with caps held on by duct tape makes a very protective package for spears, but it's so heavy and awkward (particularly when you already have two suitcases and a rifle case with your bows and arrows in it), and expensive to ship, that I wound up leaving both it and all my spears spears with other reenactors who felt they'd have a use for them and less difficulty/expense transporting them. I will not travel with spears in the future. If I send any more to Greece, I'll send them well ahead of time by the cheapest service available and leave them with a trusted friend.<br /><br />- Under the (to my Pennsylvanian standards) quite aggressive heat and sun, the film of linseed oil-beeswax sealer I applied on top of the oil paint on my crescent shield softened and rubbed off. Specifically, the area on top of the dark red ochre-painted part of the shield; the area on top of the white edge was somewhat more resistant (presumably because the film is transparent and the dark paint heated up in the sun faster). The same mixture used as a paint binder on my new gorytos was also more resistant, but did soften after prolonged exposure, allowing thicker bits to be scraped off. The rosin-beeswax glue attaching the leather facing of my new akinakes scabbard also softened. By contrast, anything treated, bound or sealed with only linseed oil or rosin (the ochre paint on the shield, the spear handles, and the sinew wrappings of my arrows) were all fine. So basically anything containing beeswax was in danger of melting.<br /><br />- The buff leather weapon belt performed admirably. The chrome-tanned belt sagged and became uncomfortable. I'm not sure whether this is because the holes I punched in the buff belt allowed it to be laced tighter or because it's a thicker leather, but I suspect both. The belt being nice and snug was definitely helpful.<br /><br />- As I suspected, the smaller bow and commensurately smaller gorytos and arrows were much easier to carry. The search for an accurately Classical-styled bow of less than 36 inches strung continues.<br /><br />- The 1/2-inch-thick wooden crescent shield is at least as heavy as larger wicker ones in the same style. This, too, needs improvement. I also threw together a round wicker mat with pelta-style grips and a suede facing, which at 16 inches in diameter (about the size of the smallest Scottish targes, and barely large enough to cover my arm from elbow to knuckles with fingers closed around the handgrip) is so light I barely notice I'm wearing it, but I'd have felt much, much better about it if it were crescent-shaped.<br /><br />- A 12-ounce ceramic bottle, while convenient to carry, is only around a quarter as much water as I need to drink over the course of a Greek midsummer day in the field. Also, water left out becomes as hot as the surrounding air in just a few hours. What I wound up doing was to take a two-liter plastic bottle of water and keep it overnight in the hotel minifridge where it half-froze, wrapped it in spare clothing and kept it in my tent in my suitcase. That way I could still at least refill my ceramic bottle with slightly cool water by the end of the day. A proper cooler with ice blocks would've been better.<br /><br />- Food must be kept elevated or it will be invaded by ants. A table of some kind, a crate, a box, anything will help.</p>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-7151420871665752312022-06-29T07:24:00.001-07:002022-06-29T08:04:03.554-07:00Pieced gorytos, part V and last<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU7-iSEOkwLqycu6RAs4BD9t9VQTqZ7Te5PpsLRVlTfUsECzZGcva1dWkueXpEnKGtqDY9Yr7cktohpml4L5E_wsrMfs1iOBby2jqfjqcybY2pflOPk-V81B4bbuPUUjgjR6IOGOQwPuZjx2RKzOFWiE5QdJoG3kOR-wSyBFsc2Cp5Hwg7hiuuPMUi/s1200/tracing%20cover.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU7-iSEOkwLqycu6RAs4BD9t9VQTqZ7Te5PpsLRVlTfUsECzZGcva1dWkueXpEnKGtqDY9Yr7cktohpml4L5E_wsrMfs1iOBby2jqfjqcybY2pflOPk-V81B4bbuPUUjgjR6IOGOQwPuZjx2RKzOFWiE5QdJoG3kOR-wSyBFsc2Cp5Hwg7hiuuPMUi/s320/tracing%20cover.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The final steps were essentially no different from last time. I put the strung bow in the case and used it to approximate the size and shape of the cover onto folded paper. The curved top is my guess as to how it should be shaped if I manage to find a more authentically-shaped bow in the future. I then traced it onto another piece of buckskin.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4OwAiZceaZ-g9q_uEV9_s1AzZ1OApqu5ag8Gn8y7uawaYQW1kW3hSqseNLeVkOyA6Zjyl61ybDpZUf6LhG-EIapmUUJt-ynyj7tSojuXIWncoPGulsQetDVUTfheP5yzbTgsZdrbs43RcSxooKDaroHUcsVoOFX3hzGRDgqUY9uzd1n6BHVbZzrB9/s1200/stitching%20cover.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4OwAiZceaZ-g9q_uEV9_s1AzZ1OApqu5ag8Gn8y7uawaYQW1kW3hSqseNLeVkOyA6Zjyl61ybDpZUf6LhG-EIapmUUJt-ynyj7tSojuXIWncoPGulsQetDVUTfheP5yzbTgsZdrbs43RcSxooKDaroHUcsVoOFX3hzGRDgqUY9uzd1n6BHVbZzrB9/s320/stitching%20cover.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>As with the main body, I stapled the seam at the edges, made the stitch holes with a hobby awl and sewed with heavy linen thread.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGonSZOZMe0dTkCiUzGdhJgp_W4mN1wmgtELWIATsjmOcLHKSeWQe078tx5omBSEMDcdg6Or4WiKYLC254kTouEXfh5ZRWWxepk2FrKpaZk9eqW5K3W-BDw51ORtNGFpOMTIpyhuwkbBhTEjHFxxbmd7Pw1JswH-vJS7nTB7JPTSBmSqpcaQebQnEq/s1200/drafting%20attachments.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGonSZOZMe0dTkCiUzGdhJgp_W4mN1wmgtELWIATsjmOcLHKSeWQe078tx5omBSEMDcdg6Or4WiKYLC254kTouEXfh5ZRWWxepk2FrKpaZk9eqW5K3W-BDw51ORtNGFpOMTIpyhuwkbBhTEjHFxxbmd7Pw1JswH-vJS7nTB7JPTSBmSqpcaQebQnEq/s320/drafting%20attachments.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The belt attachments are roughly copied from the ones I made last time and are similarly fabricated from 14ga brass, cut with an angle grinder, annealed, and with the top bars expanded by being hammered with a small steel block.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2gyZHPwC_B54a_EBPujza6R19sBImf5p-cBT8zsmPqMTr2UzcI8kCSXpu0jsoMKnmy3L1pVUn98H6c2zXsEBrcPYw1J_BVlVVe9FBLfDaJ96J2LadW87Wbsu-L2C3W7NhrIPVR5ay14f588HJZURvfw7pOTYlkTAQKBXsjR_DDnxVFxCdNmsvtmR/s1200/finished%20attachments.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN2gyZHPwC_B54a_EBPujza6R19sBImf5p-cBT8zsmPqMTr2UzcI8kCSXpu0jsoMKnmy3L1pVUn98H6c2zXsEBrcPYw1J_BVlVVe9FBLfDaJ96J2LadW87Wbsu-L2C3W7NhrIPVR5ay14f588HJZURvfw7pOTYlkTAQKBXsjR_DDnxVFxCdNmsvtmR/s320/finished%20attachments.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>I didn't have enough of the giant upholstery tacks from last time and they were no longer available at the fabric store, so I ordered some 1/2-inch brass tacks from Crazy Crow. These have an advantage over the upholstery tacks in that, being solid brass, their finish can't be scratched off and the heads won't rust if scratched. Stephan Eitler offered the quite reasonable alternative that the cord simply passes through a hole or slot in the spine and that what I've been interpreting as the attachment devices are actually ornamental.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3SedOExudAYYPgLMM-DyvOM703V4KiXckWILalMF1HiPn_eAYcLG1qO23U-pT2g8JHn48v7Mi6DBm4-bxwY7Y2bECxi8VuIZ2QON_ZZfzYnS8pttX5CZuvpTA6W_fhTvMm7-lQ4ifBZoVOWBRuhb-na2iOVY6JIPpYfhVtsmgiZHoLHuN963_4ogN/s1200/all%20done.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3SedOExudAYYPgLMM-DyvOM703V4KiXckWILalMF1HiPn_eAYcLG1qO23U-pT2g8JHn48v7Mi6DBm4-bxwY7Y2bECxi8VuIZ2QON_ZZfzYnS8pttX5CZuvpTA6W_fhTvMm7-lQ4ifBZoVOWBRuhb-na2iOVY6JIPpYfhVtsmgiZHoLHuN963_4ogN/s320/all%20done.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>The finished gorytos. There is some difficulty in balancing how far up the spine the cord is attached (so the case will hang diagonally) versus how far down the cover can go (so it can sit partly on the spine instead of just lying on the bowstring and potentially slipping off). The excess overlap of the cover onto the spine, combined with the square upper corner of the spine and how soft the leather is, explains why the cover appears particularly slouchy. I may cut a semicircular notch on the upper (folded) side, as appears in some of the Persepolis reliefs and which I did in 2015.<br />Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-79847086018650003322022-06-23T08:28:00.001-07:002022-06-23T08:29:05.142-07:00Arm fibulae from Gaukler Medieval Wares<p>(<a href="https://www.bookandsword.com/2022/06/09/elbow-brooches/">Alert</a> via Sean Manning, Book and Sword) Mark Shier of Gaukler Medieval Wares in Canada is now offering a bronze <a href="http://medievalwares.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_156&products_id=3293&zenid=pkfl5bh8bqj7u79ut70gi0s0s3">hand brooch</a> of a correct type for the Achaemenid period, so there'll be no need to have one custom-made or try to fabricate one.<br /></p>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-1269020410379470632022-05-29T09:29:00.001-07:002022-05-29T09:29:19.129-07:00Pieced gorytos, part IVIt took much longer for the paint to cure than I expected, as the slight grooves between the plywood face and veneer edge held accumulations that were thicker and took longer to oxidize. Once this was done, I tried to attach the leather to the spine with pitch glue. However, I was reluctant to keep the pitch glue melted with the heat gun for fear it would make the veneer edging delaminate. All this could be avoided if I could figure out how to make a solid wood spine, but in the end, I peeled off the pitch glue, reattached the leather with rubber cement and finally started drilling a few days ago.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisu0rS6phokMA_IiLT2MkwJ-TVaEZwxfRrXnlx2USTK2bj8uDbc7UyZvDF0anngGQauUushi0Pg98CA3ZdPF6x3b_4odBXSwe0rwlDcyZm93YOpM2yATm5m7aD5xgeXsh4Wfc0ImjP-fpqotr8rnp6aHS6Zg-RfJzEX6QxcKt6PHHzFl6VxGNgsDq6/s1200/lacing%201.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisu0rS6phokMA_IiLT2MkwJ-TVaEZwxfRrXnlx2USTK2bj8uDbc7UyZvDF0anngGQauUushi0Pg98CA3ZdPF6x3b_4odBXSwe0rwlDcyZm93YOpM2yATm5m7aD5xgeXsh4Wfc0ImjP-fpqotr8rnp6aHS6Zg-RfJzEX6QxcKt6PHHzFl6VxGNgsDq6/w400-h300/lacing%201.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The stitching is soft hemp twine from a craft store, which I drew back and forth over a block of beeswax to lubricate it and reduce fraying. I'm not sure exactly how much I used, but I spooled out about 24 feet more than necessary, which does make the stitching process tedious.<br /><br />I spaced the stitch holes half an inch apart and marked them with a pen on the leather, then ran the gorytos under the drill press. The size of the drill bit is dependent on the thickness of the twine. In this case, a 3/32" bit was just right. I could lace the first running stitch by hand with care. After drilling, I scrubbed the sawdust off with a stiff nail brush.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5se3C58sCZyldUmFwcPz4dPO6cUxZcbosWZA0TmaEvStfEYTfgiRfl6NedJScrQ8UdR7bRes7_YsdRUyibUKF0KFY2RTad2P9KKgTtgvkLPU65dq4TWQvyJx5ihQZX728585C0uRo-cAQhyv_9yCV_vFX-_mtgAt6CtEFqIQhdECJIWgjIthQnFnb/s1200/lacing%202.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5se3C58sCZyldUmFwcPz4dPO6cUxZcbosWZA0TmaEvStfEYTfgiRfl6NedJScrQ8UdR7bRes7_YsdRUyibUKF0KFY2RTad2P9KKgTtgvkLPU65dq4TWQvyJx5ihQZX728585C0uRo-cAQhyv_9yCV_vFX-_mtgAt6CtEFqIQhdECJIWgjIthQnFnb/w400-h300/lacing%202.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>When doubling the running stitch, I had to flatten the end of the twine and put it on a needle. As the stitch hole was now crowded with the first stitch, I occasionally had to draw the needle through with a pair of pliers, but this became less often necessary as my fingers got sticky with beeswax.<br /><br />After completing the stitching, I tied the twine off a bunch of times and cut it with about two inches of excess.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDIMKbF51zK3hE40Elri3E8KKtREP6Ai8ORH-NML-v8OAW8zNGF_qF3m2b2kIfLRZw-1-RLWueDIOoYlIs5SJrK2wznAiJ28hppt7rv_uc4lym67q_Txn7yczwexdmiL-kfNCmE-8uJcDJyiASiCrS9HLF5bVo3UL9m9Ed4exg93TOvePruLfr-C2M/s1200/laced.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDIMKbF51zK3hE40Elri3E8KKtREP6Ai8ORH-NML-v8OAW8zNGF_qF3m2b2kIfLRZw-1-RLWueDIOoYlIs5SJrK2wznAiJ28hppt7rv_uc4lym67q_Txn7yczwexdmiL-kfNCmE-8uJcDJyiASiCrS9HLF5bVo3UL9m9Ed4exg93TOvePruLfr-C2M/w400-h300/laced.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The fit is a little more snug than I'd like; I think the string and tip of the bow should not rub against the spine at all, so an extra inch of leather would've been a good idea. This leather will stretch with time, but whether it will stretch enough is another question.<br /><br />Anyway, the next step will be to make the belt attachments and then the cover.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-6652312300503460362022-04-26T15:20:00.001-07:002022-04-26T15:20:08.088-07:00Pieced gorytos, part IIII wanted to make the spine from solid wood, but was still concerned with it snapping across the curved part. Historically, there may have been several solutions to this problem: The spines may have been very thick and heavy, made of naturally curved branches, boiled or steamed and then bent, made in two crossgrain plies and glued like the one I made in 2015 (which nonetheless did snap when I fell on it), sheathed in metal to reinforce them, actually made of metal, or just treated with great care and/or replaced as soon as they did break. I have no evidence for any of these methods.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAAdsu5LdR63NVeC9Il7LfjMTK1j4Hp6JBPf1pihIVI5xqL0CJx7j0CvByvqYcsX1596Qx5qkpZCOEN3PXuE2dCw0P1mBcVj0l56rdVgUJh5F3z3EYcc0QUPEvax6zZmaQE0yfP0iRbZVWcN2ja6RmU5fTBVzFmBs7V2WAUryPmtSVhNBOxiXtlPU8/s1200/edging.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAAdsu5LdR63NVeC9Il7LfjMTK1j4Hp6JBPf1pihIVI5xqL0CJx7j0CvByvqYcsX1596Qx5qkpZCOEN3PXuE2dCw0P1mBcVj0l56rdVgUJh5F3z3EYcc0QUPEvax6zZmaQE0yfP0iRbZVWcN2ja6RmU5fTBVzFmBs7V2WAUryPmtSVhNBOxiXtlPU8/w400-h300/edging.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>In any case, what I wound up doing was cutting the spine from plywood. This is, of course, the only method I can say for certain is <i>not </i>historical, but seemed to me the only one feasible at the moment. I cut it on a scroll saw and smoothed the edges on my mini-belt sander. Unfortunately, the edges are very clearly plywood and provide an easy entry point for water and grime, so my next step was to apply veneer edging intended for just this purpose. This is a paper-thin continuous strip of wood with a hot glue backing, which is melted with a clothing iron, heat gun or other source of heat and pressed into place.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk08HB2zvkd7UysIJmUyySdTMIIge9smh_u6e_SenQFhbYV4VdPr73jQ8gIpyESc3wGYq2pxZXOG-ErSiE1d6RB4a9FgxMS9unUy9IVPdAcCmS8wlOQKt0YQYUdCGu1SA_TpbPULeGr0RS2J0uETy4Wbz6924wsYONUdJxOGCEV0_f4LREA7UVc-pv/s1200/trimming.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk08HB2zvkd7UysIJmUyySdTMIIge9smh_u6e_SenQFhbYV4VdPr73jQ8gIpyESc3wGYq2pxZXOG-ErSiE1d6RB4a9FgxMS9unUy9IVPdAcCmS8wlOQKt0YQYUdCGu1SA_TpbPULeGr0RS2J0uETy4Wbz6924wsYONUdJxOGCEV0_f4LREA7UVc-pv/w400-h300/trimming.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I edged the exterior and the interior, which will be rubbing against the bow. The half-inch veneer edging turned out to be slightly wider than the half-inch plywood is thick, so I next had to trim off the overhang.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZk_WWxDZRMnSjKN3ClUcWeho2svzT8SqEWmnLnAHqmmWyVM2UBaTbCy7edxr4-sILMmI9iyrzuMghfgMj5bMCgh8rTY0tdHJPP8lMHWFjzzvPFVHW9pXHCbv1k-YOAFLV8klhEme32MUu-WkQTue4ygHGigLJ23T47tb_fsJeNFWbKANL3prS6Tb/s1200/sanded.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCZk_WWxDZRMnSjKN3ClUcWeho2svzT8SqEWmnLnAHqmmWyVM2UBaTbCy7edxr4-sILMmI9iyrzuMghfgMj5bMCgh8rTY0tdHJPP8lMHWFjzzvPFVHW9pXHCbv1k-YOAFLV8klhEme32MUu-WkQTue4ygHGigLJ23T47tb_fsJeNFWbKANL3prS6Tb/w400-h300/sanded.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>After that, I sanded the spine to 320 grit, rounding off all the sharp corners as I went. This having been done, I still found its appearance unconvincing somehow. On close inspection, it simply does not look like solid wood.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXEYeX1QpL75BDxo0nJuX3jR7SlpPjwcCWJzxKC67Wu2RX2ydkXZdqIoi5zsCguJLANOBUJFTrHlSgBufdbpEFQCkACt69ZCv7zGB_XetUomLg6wR4aHRr2ClBc73Eo9wiyvh_-rHjX78xP5U_2rTOxg3KbxvPDWKgl084Wd5kp3CdSkHfevaBIKb/s1200/painted.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjXEYeX1QpL75BDxo0nJuX3jR7SlpPjwcCWJzxKC67Wu2RX2ydkXZdqIoi5zsCguJLANOBUJFTrHlSgBufdbpEFQCkACt69ZCv7zGB_XetUomLg6wR4aHRr2ClBc73Eo9wiyvh_-rHjX78xP5U_2rTOxg3KbxvPDWKgl084Wd5kp3CdSkHfevaBIKb/w400-h300/painted.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Ultimately what I've done is covered the whole thing with simple ochre oil paint (except the inner edge, to prevent it from rubbing off on the bow). This not only masks the grain, but also fills in splintered flaws in the wood and provides some sealing against moisture. The paint I mixed up was a little thick. If it turns out to begin crumbling off the surface too easily when cured, I'll rub it down with a little extra oil and/or wax. Otherwise, it should be roughly another week before I can stitch the main pocket on.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-51517250920746267692022-04-10T05:56:00.000-07:002022-04-10T05:56:02.246-07:00Ancient Iran exhibit at the Getty Villa Museum, Los Angeles<p>If you're in LA anytime between now and August 8, check out <a href="https://www.getty.edu/news/persia-ancient-iran-and-the-classical-world-at-the-getty-villa-museum/">Persia: Ancient Iran and the Classical World</a> at the Getty Villa Museum in Pacific Palisades. Thanks to Athanasios Porporis, who brought a Facebook post on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/Archaeology.Prehistoric/posts/2216868828462314/">the sword of Artaxerxes I</a> to our attention via Ancient Hoplitikon of Melbourne; otherwise, I wouldn't have been aware of any of this.<br /></p>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-61895147197676276732022-03-26T07:19:00.002-07:002022-03-26T07:19:43.811-07:00Polishing rough-finished steelAs noted in my previous post, many spearheads come from the factor with a coarsely ground and blackened finish. This may be a cost-saving measure, but it's rather unappealing, especially if other your other steel items are already polished. Here I'm going to try to give a better finish to the AntiqueCraftsShop javelin heads.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Nha9RPBZIrEBu_kzMWd_JYlpccI8NqUXa2IJnFh2JvULo8ylRcbANwDyTCEJScTyiloGFWcY4Rm9ISIZ17mUDrXdh4_dyhKbdWDP9TR3wMzbB-xZAUOarUumvt1owdY0krer0XMHCOH277NPbqk1D1V7DMgC8tbnkMnSH73wfxzM2bG8Z0NW63U7/s1200/belt%20sander.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Nha9RPBZIrEBu_kzMWd_JYlpccI8NqUXa2IJnFh2JvULo8ylRcbANwDyTCEJScTyiloGFWcY4Rm9ISIZ17mUDrXdh4_dyhKbdWDP9TR3wMzbB-xZAUOarUumvt1owdY0krer0XMHCOH277NPbqk1D1V7DMgC8tbnkMnSH73wfxzM2bG8Z0NW63U7/w400-h300/belt%20sander.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I'm starting it on a mini belt sander I recently got on eBay. Sanding belts used for metal quickly acquire a smooth feel that belies the actual grit (size gradient of the sand) and are permeated with fine metal dust, so they should be kept separate from those used for wood and other materials.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIPlfqXNMTo5YlcAEBdzg2Hi0EDSzXTKxpITxvWVaCij7134CDObySkYcq69z5jtxBv9o2rwxrRd5THn28ilEoxpFTa8avE71QV19kYMWa7J4RX8teVr5ld8qVNTd5RG8CGVC4qvi5p4CB0lIWGvpjX8JYCoY-wmS0gqq3CwHwOu4CauHc5NLhrNIv/s1200/belt%20sanding.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIPlfqXNMTo5YlcAEBdzg2Hi0EDSzXTKxpITxvWVaCij7134CDObySkYcq69z5jtxBv9o2rwxrRd5THn28ilEoxpFTa8avE71QV19kYMWa7J4RX8teVr5ld8qVNTd5RG8CGVC4qvi5p4CB0lIWGvpjX8JYCoY-wmS0gqq3CwHwOu4CauHc5NLhrNIv/w400-h300/belt%20sanding.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>The slightly hollow-ground faces can be sanded with a slow back-and-forth movement over an axle. If they were a flat diamond grind, I would press the faces against the belt where it runs over the supporting metal shelf. (This can be done to thin down the secondary bevels, though, since the angle needed to do so means the medial ridge is well clear of the belt.) Care is needed at this stage not to mess up the medial ridge. Once it's done, I turn the edges parallel to the belt sander to clean up any hints of unevenness created during this step.<br /><br />Safety notes: For some reason this sander's belt is set up to move toward the motor and up from the sanding ledge. Also, of course, I am only holding the spearhead in one hand to snap the photo; you should always hold anything you are sanding in two hands whenever it's in contact with the belt, not only for safety but also because holding it in one hand often just doesn't work. And, of course, wear safety goggles whenever using any power tools that grind, cut or drill. I like chemical splash goggles that wrap against the face, making sure no metal fragments can get in my eyes again.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAn3zES1xBp-b4wHom5dZbxXysxkSCVVZOHffRr5-2Nyz1BbtpGORLp4bxLbPXsz18Q9vPjRQJfWzmMhJyDy0OPk2ytDAO1v0Sv0bMy6SS_HJxwSIL6qU1Yo6DYB6ieGMn-QzCLsZcO8bonqr-aoVl6EXw8RMT-YhszFVWIerxlcurBkkX6xLVIaLs/s1200/sanding%20the%20socket.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAn3zES1xBp-b4wHom5dZbxXysxkSCVVZOHffRr5-2Nyz1BbtpGORLp4bxLbPXsz18Q9vPjRQJfWzmMhJyDy0OPk2ytDAO1v0Sv0bMy6SS_HJxwSIL6qU1Yo6DYB6ieGMn-QzCLsZcO8bonqr-aoVl6EXw8RMT-YhszFVWIerxlcurBkkX6xLVIaLs/w400-h300/sanding%20the%20socket.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Sanding on top of the shelf allows you to press down hard on flat or convex surfaces, useful when trying to get rid of deep pits and grind marks. Moving convex surfaces to the gap between the axle and shelf allows the belt to wrap slightly around the surface, giving a more even finish.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6lvHs4_lbocpf70spLqYQ5JRtsX2q2CX4tPZOsNWqK-QTFx3W_URodWY5wjBrnwl-jDv59Dw65dnbYNAFNNtmOFRtnlKIp9U2d789onnmD0s7T8CzrVI69WQ5WBVdPvsHAc0a0wOd5WzpzEeobqWwyfuCFZb-gflaEGjj62Uwv0YeWz6SJTmM8FHj/s1200/60%20grit.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6lvHs4_lbocpf70spLqYQ5JRtsX2q2CX4tPZOsNWqK-QTFx3W_URodWY5wjBrnwl-jDv59Dw65dnbYNAFNNtmOFRtnlKIp9U2d789onnmD0s7T8CzrVI69WQ5WBVdPvsHAc0a0wOd5WzpzEeobqWwyfuCFZb-gflaEGjj62Uwv0YeWz6SJTmM8FHj/w200-h150/60%20grit.jpg" width="200" /></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicnh14zjruHhnveIb59aSL3Pu-1YF_mpgs3nmUvjfgBe96iXTNgjJtrT4mMme4xX2eTRXvyvwBM0Um0qjoVLyJ_YFwx8y4oWfYI1hm-caQAZ-LdCQxKLDCnyb5NBZH8JhzXhHQFbH-4evuabi4uCLvPi0zRkJR74evcMuhhYFg5JgofivF8XrjOfm/s1200/150%20grit.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicnh14zjruHhnveIb59aSL3Pu-1YF_mpgs3nmUvjfgBe96iXTNgjJtrT4mMme4xX2eTRXvyvwBM0Um0qjoVLyJ_YFwx8y4oWfYI1hm-caQAZ-LdCQxKLDCnyb5NBZH8JhzXhHQFbH-4evuabi4uCLvPi0zRkJR74evcMuhhYFg5JgofivF8XrjOfm/w200-h150/150%20grit.jpg" width="200" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDgJIiEFEZlb9T6YuGQ-tCaUt64gs_xyOXGU6t0Qpz-u7qLBPeEMZfULLRUCJTZOt0ZxHyESEFREqkViZto7c7G4h69djW7HjGTs1Lw0vOorbjxLpqyecRzxQ1uIJU9nFNUJA1b_B3Ljpy7stTpwTfBbP10TP446BdWaD9tlpWZkb77nINpdSXBNx/s1200/600%20grit.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJDgJIiEFEZlb9T6YuGQ-tCaUt64gs_xyOXGU6t0Qpz-u7qLBPeEMZfULLRUCJTZOt0ZxHyESEFREqkViZto7c7G4h69djW7HjGTs1Lw0vOorbjxLpqyecRzxQ1uIJU9nFNUJA1b_B3Ljpy7stTpwTfBbP10TP446BdWaD9tlpWZkb77nINpdSXBNx/w200-h150/600%20grit.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>After polishing to 60 (top), 150 (middle) and 600 grit.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjv13T9_xwxCSiHcv4eeCg3HLbw85RQaww43J4RrDu9aEPn6VFX3gvJjxWQKjJNz2TYI_OzCzyEC6RO1fiMi5dj1Z-_h_2uYNDcJfufCVDzmJ3a7cjktA9yg92QXbWaMCAO1IuSSDZeKLjmXUg-i4WvJoqUDyc4bKsnN6YmZFMpeFNlmNzEUqLVkn1/s1200/sandpapers.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjv13T9_xwxCSiHcv4eeCg3HLbw85RQaww43J4RrDu9aEPn6VFX3gvJjxWQKjJNz2TYI_OzCzyEC6RO1fiMi5dj1Z-_h_2uYNDcJfufCVDzmJ3a7cjktA9yg92QXbWaMCAO1IuSSDZeKLjmXUg-i4WvJoqUDyc4bKsnN6YmZFMpeFNlmNzEUqLVkn1/w400-h300/sandpapers.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Some of the sandpapers used to give the final hand polish. For this step I am tending to wrap the sandpaper around the back of one finger and use the other hand to rub the spear across it, following the alignment of the the scratches created by the belt sander. With the blade faces, it's very difficult to follow the sander's marks. I tend to instead just pinch the paper around the faces with my fingertips and rub the paper parallel to the blade; much easier, though not as effective.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiruUNF1R0nwlOoCA3maLRecr3nUpv2SayZGfv9tZJOLTgOPvzVHMCo4jwrl7xsoPn7zVhps-IQgNpV3_EffCnJN9SL3mBHMUZCRKaO_maVsyeHKj4cOpOMwZeSfw-Zo_Lu90tKiZNgkQmG-fReB-_xpqT0SHopxn_IDL0uhbLnf9AvV1ji0EFVV_Xx/s1200/finished.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiruUNF1R0nwlOoCA3maLRecr3nUpv2SayZGfv9tZJOLTgOPvzVHMCo4jwrl7xsoPn7zVhps-IQgNpV3_EffCnJN9SL3mBHMUZCRKaO_maVsyeHKj4cOpOMwZeSfw-Zo_Lu90tKiZNgkQmG-fReB-_xpqT0SHopxn_IDL0uhbLnf9AvV1ji0EFVV_Xx/w300-h400/finished.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>The finished spearheads both illustrate the importance of using as many grades of grit as possible. Each grade is able to remove grind marks from a slightly coarser grit, while creating new marks of its own, until you're using a grit so fine that its marks are undetectable to the eye (achieving the so-called mirror polish). The spearhead on the left was initially polished with the 600-grit belt before moving on to finer grades of paper for hand-polishing. As a result, it still has lots of grind marks and pits with black scale that the belt was unable to reach or remove. The one on the right, which started on a 60-grit belt, has almost none of the factory marks left, but the jump from 150 to 600-grit left lots of marks from the 150-grit that the 600-grit belt didn't deal with. These are visible not as black scratches but as bright, sparkly ones. I'm not sure which one I dislike more. Either way, the conclusion is clear: I need to buy more stuff.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-58434371554290729062022-03-18T14:15:00.004-07:002022-03-18T14:15:44.540-07:00Product review: Javelin head from AntiqueCraftsShop<a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/AntiqueCraftsShop?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1115449581">AntiqueCraftsShop</a> is an Etsy-based retailer that sells a variety of items, mostly historical weaponry. I came across the listing for their <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/1115449581/viking-hand-forged-spearhead-medieval">Viking Hand Forged Spearhead Medieval Javelin set</a> recently while looking for a lightweight spearhead that would be acceptable for our time period.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ddbZgIQWYXPsV-BZPZ6jju9ArDXQV10_Va4HBluMOlMYvtG7uFc0N85LN3C9t7N1gBEGLd-2OVkfR76s7gnH45kwdpTepIuEK-HdVkIBqqK-3F0JE6q_DnEY_fOqyMSo5plIT0IT9XAMAWgYNUxzatc6x9IawjTXBHWBTHd6BUIPPyUC3iQ9WSe3/s1200/antiques%20crafts%20shop%20spearhead.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8ddbZgIQWYXPsV-BZPZ6jju9ArDXQV10_Va4HBluMOlMYvtG7uFc0N85LN3C9t7N1gBEGLd-2OVkfR76s7gnH45kwdpTepIuEK-HdVkIBqqK-3F0JE6q_DnEY_fOqyMSo5plIT0IT9XAMAWgYNUxzatc6x9IawjTXBHWBTHd6BUIPPyUC3iQ9WSe3/w400-h300/antiques%20crafts%20shop%20spearhead.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />As you can see, it has a similar rough-ground and blackened appearance to the <a href="http://xerxesmillion.blogspot.com/2020/11/product-review-lord-of-battles-forged.html">Lord of Battles</a> spearhead. Given that both companies' products appear to be Indian-made, I wouldn't be surprised if some of the same cottage industry workers produced items for both companies, but that's speculation.<br /><br />I was, however, pleasantly surprised to find that the AntiqueCraftsShop javelin head is much closer to its retail photos and specifications. On my postage scale, the points weigh a hair over 5 ounces/142 grams, and they measure 20.5 and 21cm long, actually a tiny bit lighter and shorter than the official specs. The kite shape is a good match for some of the spearheads from Deve Hüyük and the diamond grind is acceptable. The length is too short and thus they're proportionally a little squat, but at this late stage, I'm willing to overlook that.<br /><br />More importantly, the points are decently symmetrical, have straight centerlines, and the edges are slightly convex. They're not perfect, but they're a far cry from the sloppy quality control suggested by the Lord of Battles piece, and more than good enough for my purposes.<br /><br />A few drawbacks: As far as the spearhead itself goes, the rough finish is quite ugly. Luckily I now have a belt sander and should be able to clean it up pretty quickly. It also lacks a pin hole, which would help affix it more securely to the shaft. I may be able to add one by grinding a pit with a round Dremel cutter and then finishing with a drill press, but if the steel is hardened, that may be very difficult.<br /><br />With regards to the seller, AntiqueCraftsShop doesn't appear to sell items singly, so you have to buy at least two if not more. They seem to have a limited supply of each item as well.<br /><br />On the whole, I think this has been a worthwhile purchase, and I hope to finish and haft both of them to bring to Plataia this year.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-92047591295750022802022-02-07T15:39:00.004-08:002022-02-07T15:39:58.383-08:00Pieced gorytos, part IIAfter about a week and a half, the paint was completely cured. I moved onto the next step, stitching the arrow pocket.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh5n3_vtxV67iER35w6sGFEAVgMLhYLVQ7f-WlT7tmz85Flv6HshJnSNjySCHTl32mQxOFr7Tam8ctshkRv0hBP0GafZ3Jt3KsAiIpoKkscoDDfQH4AZokcC2Zn1982mTwB6BjUNE2bnPZ0r-08rYEQoPFVf65CeIHif59gLm7OpPNJ41ebgnDEOO91=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEh5n3_vtxV67iER35w6sGFEAVgMLhYLVQ7f-WlT7tmz85Flv6HshJnSNjySCHTl32mQxOFr7Tam8ctshkRv0hBP0GafZ3Jt3KsAiIpoKkscoDDfQH4AZokcC2Zn1982mTwB6BjUNE2bnPZ0r-08rYEQoPFVf65CeIHif59gLm7OpPNJ41ebgnDEOO91=s320" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDVZPIdAsCur3CuU4eSDtX3uMnZgbLUtS2vG15wIl1Gqhv_VAT0yQI0GLgGiUdSCD0i1_NN9gknNcOa6FDFQPwlig4m91xFdW22_CC9uZFMyvDCn1xPPnMYpB7uG-Zn-PuHKHEzYYckxC83pZYCBxy5UpFOhQgttuzJ1O2jAA3EzkoV9-VLAaNbsdg=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiDVZPIdAsCur3CuU4eSDtX3uMnZgbLUtS2vG15wIl1Gqhv_VAT0yQI0GLgGiUdSCD0i1_NN9gknNcOa6FDFQPwlig4m91xFdW22_CC9uZFMyvDCn1xPPnMYpB7uG-Zn-PuHKHEzYYckxC83pZYCBxy5UpFOhQgttuzJ1O2jAA3EzkoV9-VLAaNbsdg=s320" width="320" /></a></div>Instead of glue, I kept the arrow pocket in place this time with staples. This is a bit destructive, but easier than using a period glue, and ancient people could easily have achieved the same thing with pins.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhQbCiIWtPyWaFxnEFVU8r3Z2c6_ZjF_reinmJMBOwp-tpnzYtmDJlrfj9Ln40PqK6355Clj7rUZ-KF2f-mEIZhsm8p5YGk-CcGBzVgpHc-ej2a09nvJ09ILIGDbfIYJnoeFJDmLpmZwcuwTfFAnwz5HU-cTYZqAVGrwlXD88GawrF-lcBaHyHyB5un=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhQbCiIWtPyWaFxnEFVU8r3Z2c6_ZjF_reinmJMBOwp-tpnzYtmDJlrfj9Ln40PqK6355Clj7rUZ-KF2f-mEIZhsm8p5YGk-CcGBzVgpHc-ej2a09nvJ09ILIGDbfIYJnoeFJDmLpmZwcuwTfFAnwz5HU-cTYZqAVGrwlXD88GawrF-lcBaHyHyB5un=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div>The pocket is attached to the back with 40-weight waxed linen thread using a simple double running stitch and pulling out the staples as I went. Its long edges are brought together slightly to give the pocket the fullness needed to accommodate arrows, particularly the large, blunt rubber arrowheads we use during combat reenactment. This means some ugly crimping on the short edge. I tried to distribute the slack evenly during the stapling process, but it wound up a little uneven.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEicwWdAI6ctErUmab0Dx7r55-pqYlp3abaePbWITzIoMa9e2yKRGYGHqwOi44y6KEa0Mk_7GXJZdH9dz2v4A94fX9R34aQmX-4hCOOzeWuMjflzZ29m1DQO4FMuYCOgqkl_Ycq190nGCSHWULBeru0djR8G2GqVQehtR4IrJv6TkjI0SDa9TH1cuTU8=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEicwWdAI6ctErUmab0Dx7r55-pqYlp3abaePbWITzIoMa9e2yKRGYGHqwOi44y6KEa0Mk_7GXJZdH9dz2v4A94fX9R34aQmX-4hCOOzeWuMjflzZ29m1DQO4FMuYCOgqkl_Ycq190nGCSHWULBeru0djR8G2GqVQehtR4IrJv6TkjI0SDa9TH1cuTU8=s320" width="240" /></a></div>The lower edges of the body panels are carefully lined up and stapled first at both ends, then in the middle, then equidistant between these three and so on. I wound up using nine staples in this manner; given the length of the edge, they seemed to be the right distance apart. Note that some of the linseed oil seems to have soaked into the leather. Time will tell if this is going to be a problem. The paint doesn't scratch or rub off easily, so I think the paint itself will hold. Whether the oil will have a negative effect on the leather is another question.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhT7GKdIaeyAlCr989gLfx-7AdvLvCpK-HVI_WjXIMZYNpMHaBuvxdbBvMZOoUuP8MesahNWpre261w41tClB0asOtWzMHAj1v5yaXyKKfH1UgrwQrp5Gw8MClQh2gFolCjYqg47j47tMq8vdYuyHL1576UxELHsOCe5HL_-cowxIblPNBIMoeJEgzA=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhT7GKdIaeyAlCr989gLfx-7AdvLvCpK-HVI_WjXIMZYNpMHaBuvxdbBvMZOoUuP8MesahNWpre261w41tClB0asOtWzMHAj1v5yaXyKKfH1UgrwQrp5Gw8MClQh2gFolCjYqg47j47tMq8vdYuyHL1576UxELHsOCe5HL_-cowxIblPNBIMoeJEgzA=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>I'd meant to stitch the lower edge completely flat, but it seemed to develop slack as I moved from the upper end to the lower and I wound up puckering the seam a bit to shorten it (pulling the thread diagonally downward from the seam a little to pull the stitches closer together). This appeared to work.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgbyI-sct139CFppvgP4ybHGShdoHoR93BBmM-1KO6kfI-tQcjFZP6VRfHi0NVMih8RELo47gsNk23I5b9dqzFBS1micyqo9j1ccrmlk0Og-CvOPLuU7nHPCBudt-Lu4QwZPyoT_tv4kUXH_nwbt2PZL_8e_BVUk5GSvvopr5j1fp3zgBGaHIVoNBeP=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgbyI-sct139CFppvgP4ybHGShdoHoR93BBmM-1KO6kfI-tQcjFZP6VRfHi0NVMih8RELo47gsNk23I5b9dqzFBS1micyqo9j1ccrmlk0Og-CvOPLuU7nHPCBudt-Lu4QwZPyoT_tv4kUXH_nwbt2PZL_8e_BVUk5GSvvopr5j1fp3zgBGaHIVoNBeP=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiSqEGGGqHvvGIBAjmEkCeIBBWV9jb1_ea2KEafj4J2Wrl1H5vVGHGA5iLx_NySQ5HoUYkZp-ZCYkI0EKkfowEfGaJv1c1R6ALxA4XS2HIPn-bUTx0Qqe5FXDg4k1sw4lxalTrY7W0xHCweUQ3q3XTUH-K5o831794nhbOAqmq9oCo6etQ4tVAN_1I1=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiSqEGGGqHvvGIBAjmEkCeIBBWV9jb1_ea2KEafj4J2Wrl1H5vVGHGA5iLx_NySQ5HoUYkZp-ZCYkI0EKkfowEfGaJv1c1R6ALxA4XS2HIPn-bUTx0Qqe5FXDg4k1sw4lxalTrY7W0xHCweUQ3q3XTUH-K5o831794nhbOAqmq9oCo6etQ4tVAN_1I1=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>On the whole, I'm satisfied with how this project has gone so far. The next step (creating a curved spine that won't break too easily) is going to be a major challenge.<br />Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-78614317531822982092022-01-20T10:36:00.004-08:002022-01-21T01:37:32.142-08:00Pieced gorytos, part ISince Marathon 2015, I've wanted a bowcase that isn't nearly as big as I am for the running around and shooting part of reenactments. This requires a smaller bow, of course, but a bowcase that fits more closely to the bow's outline will present less area when viewed from the side. In fact, <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Skythian_archer_Louvre_G106.jpg">the Scythian/Persian gorytos in Greek art</a> does tend to have an outline on the lower edge that follows the curve and reflex of the strung bow staff closer than could be achieved without either building the gorytos too tight and stretching the leather or having a seam. This suggests that the main pocket is made in two parts. A construction method like this would also allow the bowcase to be made from smaller hides or hides with flaws that mean they have to be cut into smaller contiguous pieces.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjL1zOsx71iLjC25-9XeQTtmDNDM9PA1O5asSR-Wx7OJvhU1K9sH831uk-kE3GWqC2EYDvEuYpP53NI8i5e5361pXivZx8r5uSmc8GZTPuTMxIRktw1b4j86p5p2VbSbYk79fvOtk02A0ak9n4uS_UeuGOqRNsohNFTVNIdSF81ZvwOaqRZkpbKNHZT=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjL1zOsx71iLjC25-9XeQTtmDNDM9PA1O5asSR-Wx7OJvhU1K9sH831uk-kE3GWqC2EYDvEuYpP53NI8i5e5361pXivZx8r5uSmc8GZTPuTMxIRktw1b4j86p5p2VbSbYk79fvOtk02A0ak9n4uS_UeuGOqRNsohNFTVNIdSF81ZvwOaqRZkpbKNHZT=w300-h400" width="300" /></a></div>The bow I'm using as a model is <a href="https://www.alibowshop.com/product-page/mini-han">Ali Bow's Mini Han</a>; not quite right for our period with its wooden siyahs, but at just under 34 inches/86cm strung, it's the smallest recurve I can find that still looks like a bow and not a toy. I may eventually replace it if a truly tiny Scythian-style bow becomes available, but I have been warned that resin bows may crack with repeated use, so I'm going with the all-fiberglass Ali for the time being.<br /><br />The hide is <a href="https://www.crazycrow.com/buckskin-leather/aa-grade-gold-buckskin-6-12-sf">Crazy Crow's AA Grade Gold Buckskin</a>. It's grain-on, but the flesh side has a short, even nap similar to wet-scrape leather that can be the outside. The color, gaudy though it may look, is actually close to that produced on braintan by smoking over certain species of wood.<br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg788a_Dluvh9_ZoyzEMEEch4vxgxd3UbuG8eetoW7h2jBlQ4iJsnfZFdp8eURDqACh_IT2tWaH47R12GiCI_9Uh3JHN5ge9lOYlFmM4l7lUWvg5t44Wv_x79z1FIqKpVzw1k8XJg9tmQ4N5Km02NrJZ6Neq3mZBnLGJ8Ig4TMh_6Cy0jCbM4FNzSQY=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEg788a_Dluvh9_ZoyzEMEEch4vxgxd3UbuG8eetoW7h2jBlQ4iJsnfZFdp8eURDqACh_IT2tWaH47R12GiCI_9Uh3JHN5ge9lOYlFmM4l7lUWvg5t44Wv_x79z1FIqKpVzw1k8XJg9tmQ4N5Km02NrJZ6Neq3mZBnLGJ8Ig4TMh_6Cy0jCbM4FNzSQY=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>After cutting out the body pieces, I determined which one would face outward when worn in "marching" position and traced it onto heavy cardstock.<br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEikOh7QjFKb5jqcut-SRLRV7oqkFMUiu4n0DPoTeEcyNf7H1lmO2I9VRIkMYf0bPbGTvaq0gDKf5vjHM840TqJZ8dLBf_OLbKUV0BxNnK7J8meW_xoJkxBJzLENx-Ht5v15Lohvo3XCT-dSyFl2ayq72ZczAeOC9FuRXhvoNqmLhm7l8V0dj9VSanv7=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEikOh7QjFKb5jqcut-SRLRV7oqkFMUiu4n0DPoTeEcyNf7H1lmO2I9VRIkMYf0bPbGTvaq0gDKf5vjHM840TqJZ8dLBf_OLbKUV0BxNnK7J8meW_xoJkxBJzLENx-Ht5v15Lohvo3XCT-dSyFl2ayq72ZczAeOC9FuRXhvoNqmLhm7l8V0dj9VSanv7=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>At first I tried drawing the crenellations freehand in black ink, but then realized it was coming out too sloppy. I then used a yardstick and divided the length into 1-1/2-inch squares with a 1-1/2-inch top strip.<br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhQ9dMeL-Ll9tojTSjzVOkQ6A5F10xNDSi7falVVC0fXt2Y_t-KnjeYQ0UvQ5tHRK6TvySofcQlZ7k1MYWUOoTKtMpgqudYFZNTcJCDpDYlfGh_GXb-qEHx2TZ6uYreyz2FfSq1rf0pVnWM1rZWGVFg6zm7X5-gEHHQFpJs7kzh8-TnSxc5xlkWNaEi=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhQ9dMeL-Ll9tojTSjzVOkQ6A5F10xNDSi7falVVC0fXt2Y_t-KnjeYQ0UvQ5tHRK6TvySofcQlZ7k1MYWUOoTKtMpgqudYFZNTcJCDpDYlfGh_GXb-qEHx2TZ6uYreyz2FfSq1rf0pVnWM1rZWGVFg6zm7X5-gEHHQFpJs7kzh8-TnSxc5xlkWNaEi=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>... and hatched the parts to be removed...<br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjjmP0M3IBk97J3B2tuHj6ynpY1Y8Yl_0cTmjgkIA1fNUtsBdt0xgWLSmID7fp6yRfuwKe8FMS_7PPoZfRmay9RTlF1A4YbW4ZS1AP2HJKTGPzISg92JUglUl78dKpZh2Kla4K2EJYTDVTLpo3shZJcgpsJwuoPF9LG_6qjtJMq1lGvg2MaXRESqvQd=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEjjmP0M3IBk97J3B2tuHj6ynpY1Y8Yl_0cTmjgkIA1fNUtsBdt0xgWLSmID7fp6yRfuwKe8FMS_7PPoZfRmay9RTlF1A4YbW4ZS1AP2HJKTGPzISg92JUglUl78dKpZh2Kla4K2EJYTDVTLpo3shZJcgpsJwuoPF9LG_6qjtJMq1lGvg2MaXRESqvQd=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>Cutting the crenellations was too tedious for me, so I used an X-Acto over a wooden plank for that part.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEji5uv-wqIgmeRjIXWbo-2nTuO0BFemf0rWeQA7K0zJL39VgcPD9t0jBiODnNKtLTKz5P8cuVRYxO8yHgiq4oBfUA3uScucW11ln30PLlG3kMP4xl5F2XMO8Qh2Vi9b_pJTHkcCKPwcf5cX3WVP7UHQpPq_ic-v9sezM5CAzSLIrJ1Q7JotuueSFKA_=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEji5uv-wqIgmeRjIXWbo-2nTuO0BFemf0rWeQA7K0zJL39VgcPD9t0jBiODnNKtLTKz5P8cuVRYxO8yHgiq4oBfUA3uScucW11ln30PLlG3kMP4xl5F2XMO8Qh2Vi9b_pJTHkcCKPwcf5cX3WVP7UHQpPq_ic-v9sezM5CAzSLIrJ1Q7JotuueSFKA_=w200-h150" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgpy2FfRE9F6eLPNVeQXLbshn18_yZ0OXNu4waphbnO4rMTyKKVnDDUgpIDcYiFlQLSHRCAlQqHVQhmb1s1tHWe7Gn7yPCcL0ejvYTwOPU6hGw0F9eys0g5tSDC4eyKB6kvZFN0JlZj6GrrmAgGOxpiERRALxTp_HO7_a1N4FojiZUfAKNlH6t7-oOQ=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEgpy2FfRE9F6eLPNVeQXLbshn18_yZ0OXNu4waphbnO4rMTyKKVnDDUgpIDcYiFlQLSHRCAlQqHVQhmb1s1tHWe7Gn7yPCcL0ejvYTwOPU6hGw0F9eys0g5tSDC4eyKB6kvZFN0JlZj6GrrmAgGOxpiERRALxTp_HO7_a1N4FojiZUfAKNlH6t7-oOQ=w200-h150" width="200" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhWUTEr1yL5ygnhNwIFaNuHXpWG7RSkULpI2zmc-de8p0gXJSWRWUxfSxRpGCAyWesuQq54sNPAoReuGFdnbrnMJCdTc52xeb3l2mj23kO-1ISYawGBZnivX6FBybMfeAhlB0s1SSDwvJRrzNYnWTjxuxGqbbIiDgS1-7keS5dlPypWBQL-sAxlEk99=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhWUTEr1yL5ygnhNwIFaNuHXpWG7RSkULpI2zmc-de8p0gXJSWRWUxfSxRpGCAyWesuQq54sNPAoReuGFdnbrnMJCdTc52xeb3l2mj23kO-1ISYawGBZnivX6FBybMfeAhlB0s1SSDwvJRrzNYnWTjxuxGqbbIiDgS1-7keS5dlPypWBQL-sAxlEk99=w200-h150" width="200" /></a></div>Pieces of the cutout make perfect reinforcements for the ends of the stencil. Plenty of tape on both the front and back ensures that no pieces of card stick out and snag on the leather.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiJPPlObFy23Jhjzi8fuwMW4MmqzpfnQ525NRdKFaDqB72-AzU80cMrWfrIKlKuDdRAEgL42KfNLgpAUD-9xubzFvqvINWzF_5J0X1fduhi5mrwDDec15syi2SufZfX-rCQ3sGqvAEKggrVGhdXdmE8zOyTrXDZMaQuGqW-bLhU_JyFiBe4Q5a-OKNi=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiJPPlObFy23Jhjzi8fuwMW4MmqzpfnQ525NRdKFaDqB72-AzU80cMrWfrIKlKuDdRAEgL42KfNLgpAUD-9xubzFvqvINWzF_5J0X1fduhi5mrwDDec15syi2SufZfX-rCQ3sGqvAEKggrVGhdXdmE8zOyTrXDZMaQuGqW-bLhU_JyFiBe4Q5a-OKNi=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>Test-fitting the stencil. I made the curved end a little too long; the pointed tip will probably wind up inside the folded lower seam.<br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiAgfdefhb7NpY0E81bh-qpROxklmCAhx2IE7jp_V4WB4OKfAvLlj3lptiCK2kZ5fCfYfU__PaZQK2z7gmb_78WAUmzSQ5cDyR2ds4Qkv2dKvB2ilqMpeqRxaWbqFFup5i4e9YNlxOgrYOzKtTPHdxPZqm9ywqzgdvuZOTAUclO6Dxx5yxpmEq82N-K=s1200" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEiAgfdefhb7NpY0E81bh-qpROxklmCAhx2IE7jp_V4WB4OKfAvLlj3lptiCK2kZ5fCfYfU__PaZQK2z7gmb_78WAUmzSQ5cDyR2ds4Qkv2dKvB2ilqMpeqRxaWbqFFup5i4e9YNlxOgrYOzKtTPHdxPZqm9ywqzgdvuZOTAUclO6Dxx5yxpmEq82N-K=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>To prevent the leather and stencil from moving too much in relation to each other during the painting process, the stencil is taped along the back edge of the leather and on the front as much as possible without entering the stencil area.<br /><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhbZ1sffFziV0Igo-QjnVnmcPN1tIhKYrSAagvoy2qMGR6ZykapKvC4C4c743Y4T5L8wRz8AsufuG86X6Qdy8zbIhRsvyC16M6oFJCILuh_lwu2Z0PIxke-Etkdw4McDXjCPw4dQZ5LnooC80BOopR-kgA-KA9kIHTMNIUT9VZozH5li2pzgmjfmnhz=s1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/a/AVvXsEhbZ1sffFziV0Igo-QjnVnmcPN1tIhKYrSAagvoy2qMGR6ZykapKvC4C4c743Y4T5L8wRz8AsufuG86X6Qdy8zbIhRsvyC16M6oFJCILuh_lwu2Z0PIxke-Etkdw4McDXjCPw4dQZ5LnooC80BOopR-kgA-KA9kIHTMNIUT9VZozH5li2pzgmjfmnhz=w400-h300" width="400" /></a></div>This is the first time I've used the beeswax-linseed oil paint on an actual project. It's colored with red ochre. I may have added too much beeswax, as the mixture became very firm when cold. A little goes a long way, since much of the paint is scraped off and then reapplied further down. For this case, which is about 22 inches/56cm long not counting the margin where it will be stitched to the spine, I used roughly a tablespoon of paint. It will next have to cure for some days. I think it's important to get this step done before any assembly, because I can't imagine rubbing and scraping the paint into the suede on anything but a flat surface.<br />Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-1023106134432715732021-12-18T14:55:00.000-08:002021-12-18T14:55:12.056-08:00Plataea 2022 is on<p>The 2,500th anniversary commemoration of the Battle of Plataea will be on July 26-31 next year. That gives just over seven months to prepare, so for anyone who's dawdling about working on their kit (myself included), now's the time to get cracking.<br /></p>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-81848715702922971592021-10-23T06:27:00.002-07:002021-10-23T06:27:27.682-07:00Dye-fading tests by Elysse Meredith<p>I stumbled across this article just this morning: <a href="https://kasf.atlantia.sca.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/03-Ela-The-Great-2020-Dyeing-Fade-Test.pdf">The Great 2020 Dyeing Fade Test</a>. It consists of comparisons of lightfastness between different dyes on linen, wool and silk, with illustrations of what the dyed fabrics look like after different periods of sun exposure. By the end of the year, the wools were reduced to drab pastels. Interestingly, the linens all became different hues of off-white - except for linen dyed with indigo, which faded somewhat but was still a nice old denim color by the end.<br /><br />While I don't expect anyone to take up this suggestion, it would be interesting to see a member of Xerxes' army at Plataia next year wearing clothes dingy, sunbleached and patched after a hard year of campaigning.<br /></p>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-87440374433054831632021-08-25T13:01:00.002-07:002021-08-25T13:01:33.740-07:00"Achaemenid objects at Epic Iran" via Eran ud Turan<p> A special exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London is ending soon. <a href="https://www.patreon.com/posts/55254465?fbclid=IwAR26M9imQxojGXUZ2C-GMdbB7vSpQAhObDw76CdFHLMz-qx9EH8BWywmHq4">This collection of images of Achaemenid objects</a> are of particular interest to us. I found the images of the akinakes scabbard throat particularly informative with regard to the thickness-to-width proportions and the fact that it had an additional gold plate with a cutout applied to the top. I expect it will prove helpful to anyone wishing to make a replica of one.<br /></p>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-78696883941235990962021-04-19T14:01:00.003-07:002021-04-19T14:01:39.130-07:00Product review: Two possible belt strapsFor almost eight years now, I've been pondering how best to replace the veg-tan weapon belts I wore at Marathon 2011 and 2015. Given my suspicions that the Achaemenids tanned leather with fat or oil, as did Eastern Mediterranean peoples before them, I decided last year that my best option would be a strap of buff leather. This is made from cowhide (perhaps originally water buffalo or European bison hide, thus the name) which is tanned primarily with fish oil in a process similar to German buckskin and American chamois.<br /><br />An important note: Like "chamois" leather (named for a species of wild European goat but in the U.S. actually made from domesticated sheep), "buff" leather can be a very misleading term. Most items sold as being made from "genuine buff leather" appear to have their top grain intact or are finished such that you can't tell. It makes one wonder what sellers think "buff" means. When I refer to buff leather, what I mean is cowhide tanned with fish oil in a process that gives it a suede surface and a creamy yellow color (also called buff). This kind is rare and hard to obtain nowadays. Most of it in the States goes to the reenactment market, where it's used to make early modern military accoutrements like sword belts.<br /><br />I've found one person in the U.S. willing to sell unstitched buff by the piece: Roy Najecki of Najecki Reproductions. You can read up on ordering it at his <a href="http://najecki.com/repro/pouches/Carriage.html#leather">Cartridge Pouch/Box Shoulder Carriage page</a>. Be forewarned that it's not always easy to catch Mr. Najecki on the phone or by e-mail and delivery may take a while, so if you decide to use a buff strap for your belt, order it well ahead of when you need it.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tVfW4Z6YUr8/YH3nJ5usTmI/AAAAAAAABtI/UjdS6qUbZuw8F-WYjt8ytvuH9wsdNlKSACLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/buff%2Bstrap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tVfW4Z6YUr8/YH3nJ5usTmI/AAAAAAAABtI/UjdS6qUbZuw8F-WYjt8ytvuH9wsdNlKSACLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/buff%2Bstrap.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>It looks good, and it's heavy and firm yet flexible. So why wouldn't you decide to use it? Well, in the description above, you'll hopefully notice something that I overlooked: Modern buff leather is tanned not only with oil but also sulfur. This may have something to do with the fact that it smells like burned rubber, and it smells <i>strong</i>. When I first received my strap last fall, I didn't even want to be in the same room with it. I've been storing it in the garage ever since then in hopes that the smell would fade. It has, but it's still very noticeable. Several folks offered suggestions to ameliorate it, such as washing with saddle soap, and I experimented with small bits cut from one end, but nothing appeared to work. I'm still on the fence about wearing it in public unless it's become tamer by the next big event.<br /><br />It's also not cheap, although because belts are so narrow, the $35 per square foot sticker shock isn't as bad as it sounds unless your belt is going to be enormous. My 1.5x42-inch strap came to $15.31. The next item I'm reviewing here isn't all that much cheaper.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nzWLqIKuA-M/YH3qizOArGI/AAAAAAAABtQ/CkURl596Z_IfoozVNSCoEs6JamdosZkLQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/chrome%2Bstrap.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="901" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nzWLqIKuA-M/YH3qizOArGI/AAAAAAAABtQ/CkURl596Z_IfoozVNSCoEs6JamdosZkLQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/chrome%2Bstrap.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Chrome-tanned leather such as this <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010674C2I">Realeather suede belt strap</a> can make a fair substitute for fat-cured leather in appearance and texture. What more is there to add? Well, it doesn't smell, and its texture probably won't be be negatively affected by rain to the extent that a natural tannage would be. The color is a bit darker as you can see, though not as yellowish as lightly-smoked braintan, but the main flaw with this strap is that it's about half the thickness of the buff. Will it support the weight of a fully-loaded bowcase without sagging a lot or ripping? I can't confidently state that it will, unless your bow and its case are a lot smaller and lighter than the ones I use (and the Grozer Old Scythian is already one of the smallest I've seen for sale in its price range).<br /><br />So there you have it. While either of these will probably <i>look</i> more correct than a veg-tan belt, both have their own major caveats. The search for a perfect solution continues.<br />Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-27857311200493598102021-01-30T15:13:00.000-08:002021-01-30T15:13:03.759-08:00Tablet-woven sash by Aleksandra ZwawiakSince Giannis Kadoglou alerted us to the idea of tablet weaving several years ago, I've wondered whether the narrow sash worn with Medo-Persian and Elamite dress was made by this method or by cutting and stitching. I had first made some sashes in 2013 from cotton webbing, but the one I wore in 2015 was essentially a double-wide strip cut from wool yardage, sewn into a tube, inverted, and gathered at the ends. This works well enough, but several of us at Amphictyonia have long been of the suspicion that the zigzags shown on the <a href="https://www.livius.org/articles/place/susa/susa-photos/susa-statue-of-darius/">Egyptian statue of Darius the Great</a> were made by tablet-weaving instead.<br /><br />Over the summer, I gave a shot at tablet-weaving my own belt from hemp. My conclusion? Practice a lot, or leave it to the professionals.<br /><br />I contacted Aleksandra Zwawiak, proprietor of <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/SagaWeaving">SagaWeaving</a> (UK), about the possibility of a custom belt three weeks ago after seeing that she had produced belts with apparently the same weave pattern. We discussed the specifications and settled on a design over a couple of days. She ordered the yarn right away and had created the belt within a few days after that, and it arrived at my door this morning. Aleksandra was very pleasant to work with and, having some glimmer of the effort and care this technique requires, I'm impressed at the quality and speed of her work as well, as how modestly-priced it is.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SYLYUBTyKqs/YBXa6RMR1-I/AAAAAAAABnU/NIfUGSpajdMHcyfAT-96Phed0zI4tCRJgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/sash%2Bglobal.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="962" data-original-width="1200" height="321" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SYLYUBTyKqs/YBXa6RMR1-I/AAAAAAAABnU/NIfUGSpajdMHcyfAT-96Phed0zI4tCRJgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h321/sash%2Bglobal.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I requested a solid off-white or beige as might be obtained from a white sheep, and a width of 35-40mm - it comes in at a hair under 40mm. The belt is a bit thick, but it has to be for the weave to be visible, and the wool is very soft and easy to tie. It differs from the Egyptian statue in not having the lengthwise stripes with apparent Holbein stitching. It's my best guess that these represent appliqued trim rather than part of the sash's weave, so I didn't expect or request that they be included.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0rEg0k3EhQ/YBXdsvtSzOI/AAAAAAAABno/1ThILirhCd0uwSNwbksBea8tuhOzpLC5QCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/sash%2Bworn.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l0rEg0k3EhQ/YBXdsvtSzOI/AAAAAAAABno/1ThILirhCd0uwSNwbksBea8tuhOzpLC5QCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/sash%2Bworn.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>(I seem to be having a bit of trouble with square knots lately.) The standard length of 135cm between the tassels is just about right for my waist (around 30 inches or 76cm); the square knot takes up more length than a simple knot would. The loose ends of the tassels will have to be trimmed almost to nothing, but I haven't yet decided how to eliminate the risk of the knots becoming untied once this is done, so I asked Aleksandra to leave them at full length in the meanwhile. A possible solution would be to immediately soak the trimmed knots in melted rosin-beeswax glue to turn them into solid lumps; this would be permanent and waterproof, though the discoloration might look unsightly.<br /><br />It must be emphasized that this is a speculative reconstruction. I think it's a highly plausible one, as good as any other, and fits the available evidence.<br />Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-45588928825642305032020-12-07T07:39:00.000-08:002020-12-07T07:39:19.854-08:00Wooden crescent shield<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-224P7Aax3V8/X85I32YvUxI/AAAAAAAABjk/RwSPXT0JSrU_1-KCOTDqaAUmlaDLPT6CwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/crescent%2Bfront.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-224P7Aax3V8/X85I32YvUxI/AAAAAAAABjk/RwSPXT0JSrU_1-KCOTDqaAUmlaDLPT6CwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/crescent%2Bfront.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>I started this shield close to four years ago. Judging by period art, crescent shields were used from Thrace to western Scythia and possibly even Persia itself, but to my knowledge no archaeological example has been found. I think - again judging by art - that most of them were made of true wicker, especially around the Aegean. However, this one is intended for reenactment combat, and not having the luxury to replace my shield every time, I decided to start with a solid wood core. It's made of two layers of 1/4-inch poplar planks glued up with a modern waterproof carpenter glue, and then cut on a bandsaw, with the edges rounded but no tapering. <br /><br />The front is a goat rawhide drum cover attached with hide glue and stitched with waxed linen cord. I had to spread the glue right up to the edges and weigh them down so they didn't peel away while drying. It's painted with a simple mix of red ochre and boiled linseed oil in the area within the stitching, and commercial white oil paint on the edges. I've found no clearly-attested shield devices from the Persian empire, so after a while spent wondering whether to use a Thracian device or a Persian motif that hasn't been found on shields, I decided to leave it plain.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vUdokL_vmtE/X85JFAZ829I/AAAAAAAABjs/lBO9XWE-iRYjLQZReFzrwph1ZhwY3DQVwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/crescent%2Bback.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vUdokL_vmtE/X85JFAZ829I/AAAAAAAABjs/lBO9XWE-iRYjLQZReFzrwph1ZhwY3DQVwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/crescent%2Bback.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Before attaching the front, I had to do the backing and then the grip and armbands. The back is linen, attached with wood glue and then covered in acrylic paint. Since beginning this shield, I've tried to use more period-appropriate materials; if I were starting from square one today, I would've used linseed oil and yellow ochre on the back. The grip and armband are chrome-tanned leather attached with clinched nails, the grip wrapped in German buckskin with a wrist pad of the same held on by cut tacks.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D0UzKIreUBc/X85JO9vnrlI/AAAAAAAABj0/HD89YwiIEAYFIDyQfL0CkK6R5zq_HXKugCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/crescent%2Bcorner.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D0UzKIreUBc/X85JO9vnrlI/AAAAAAAABj0/HD89YwiIEAYFIDyQfL0CkK6R5zq_HXKugCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/crescent%2Bcorner.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Wrapping the upper corners with the rawhide left some gaps, which I packed with resin-beeswax hot glue and melted with the heat gun to fill in after the paint had cured. Lastly, I rubbed the stitching, facing and facing edges with linseed oil-beeswax sealer, which is why the yellow back is slightly darker near the edges. Total weight is 2 pounds 13 ounces (almost 1.28kg), width 20 inches (51cm), height 17 inches (43cm). I suspect that originals were both larger and lighter (or at least proportionally lighter). This shield is sized for me, especially the armbands and grips. It may be difficult to use for someone whose forearms are a different length or thickness. It's possible that the grips and armbands on true wicker shields could be re-tied to loosen, tighten or even move to a different place, though this was probably hard to do once the hide facing was attached.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YRKNxMpT0EQ/X85Jkj9ExhI/AAAAAAAABkA/lOekZbATUp4VxS4mqYxEnAE9L3OQ2T2wQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/crescent%2Btop.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YRKNxMpT0EQ/X85Jkj9ExhI/AAAAAAAABkA/lOekZbATUp4VxS4mqYxEnAE9L3OQ2T2wQCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/crescent%2Btop.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>As is usually the case with rawhide facings applied wet, the shield has wound up curved slightly concave as the facing dried and shrank. The more you stretch the facing, the more it will warp; excessive shrinkage can even destroy the wooden core.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-90615296745663750102020-11-08T14:25:00.001-08:002020-11-08T14:25:26.144-08:00Product review: Lord of Battles forged medium spearheadSpearheads are a dime a dozen on the reenactor market, but it's strangely difficult to find one that's quite right for our time period. The vast majority are either too large, the wrong shape, or very expensive. In fact, India-based manufacturer Lord of Battles' forged medium spearhead is the only one I've found in its price bracket that looks approximately right (though if you have another example, I'd be much obliged if you'd let me know!).<br /><br />Judging by the finds from Deve Hüyük and elsewhere, the typical Achaemenid spearhead should be relatively small (usually less than a foot long counting the socket) and have narrow kite- or leaf-shaped blades with diamond cross sections, preferably but not always with a mid-rib. I know of only two whose weights are published, at 196g/6.91oz. and 139.2g/4.91oz. They may have weighed more before corrosion, but I would imagine the upper weight should be well under 300 grams or 11 ounces for an average-sized spearhead.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hc1YMiEkeFY/X6hgutsEmcI/AAAAAAAABjI/-EcR5KOXXwIwRy7iZzAByZVVo097uL0IwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/lob%2Bmedium%2Bspearhead.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hc1YMiEkeFY/X6hgutsEmcI/AAAAAAAABjI/-EcR5KOXXwIwRy7iZzAByZVVo097uL0IwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/lob%2Bmedium%2Bspearhead.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Lord of Battles' low prices are presumably a result of lower labor costs than in Western countries, loose manufacturing tolerances (i.e. the company will accept more pieces from workshop[s] despite pieces not being exactly what they should be) and rough finish (less labor required in absolute terms). I say all this to explain why I think this spearhead is the way it is.<br /><br />I bought mine through <a href="http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SNAW1110&name=Forged+Medium+Spear+Head">Kult of Athena</a>, who list it at 11.5 inches overall, blade 6.5 inches, socket about 1 inch on the inside, weight 6.7 ounces. The measurements of the one I received are 11.75 inches overall, blade 7.125 inches, socket 1 inch on the inside, weight almost 11 ounces. The blade also appears to be wider and more sharply tapered. Mine also lacks the advertised rivet hole to help attach it to the spear shaft, and the socket isn't quite circular. Combining all this with fact that one edge is visibly concave and the centerline is curved, I'm left with a poor impression of Lord of Battles' quality control.<br /><br />The size differences are minor and the asymmetrical appearance might be considered forgivable considering how cheap the spearhead is, but the weight difference (at least for someone like me) is pretty significant. We are talking about something you affix to the end of a 6+ foot handle and wave around in one hand. The edges are pretty thick and the point is squared-off, so thinning and slight re-profiling with an angle grinder or belt sander might noticeably improve it. (In fact, while parts of the spearhead may indeed be forged, I suspect the blade was shaped largely by grinding to begin with. The fact that it has a rough-ground finish doesn't help that impression.) At this price, someone who is set up for that kind of work already might consider it a bargain, and aftermarket finishing would certainly improve its appearance.Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-63135319782677173922020-09-04T11:20:00.001-07:002021-03-22T09:44:24.235-07:00Waterproof hot gluesIMPORTANT NOTE (3/22/21): Since publishing this article, I have learned that pine rosin fumes have been found to cause asthma. The process described below should always be done outdoors. If weather doesn't permit, then postpone it.<br /><br />This year I've been trying to eliminate any period-inappropriate materials from my designs. One that's stuck with me for a long time is rubber cement, which I've used to attach leather facings to wooden scabbards. I use it primarily because in a real military campaign you couldn't reasonably expect to stash away your scabbard every time it rained, and rubber cement is waterproof, while for a long time the only alternative that came to mind was hide glue, which isn't. (I understand traditional hide glue is less readily water-soluble than the modern kind that I've been using, which has urea added to keep it liquid at room temperature - traditional hide glue must be kept warm to work with it.)<br /><br />Anyway, I've read years ago about making varnish from pine rosin by dissolving it in alcohol. This can be used to protect sinew wrappings on arrows from softening and coming loose. It recently occurred to me to ask if this varnish would be sufficiently sticky to use for scabbard facings before it dried. I was in the process of making a new letter opener, and it seemed like the right opportunity to try it out.<br /><br />If you've ever touched a sawn-off stump of a pine tree, you know that pine resin is incredibly sticky and impossible to wash off with normal soap and water; you need highly-concentrated alcohol (70+ percent hand sanitizer gel works well for this purpose) or some other nasty organic solvent like acetone (nail polish remover). Resin consists largely of rosin, the solid component, and turpentine, a natural solvent that keeps the resin liquid. Turpentine takes a long time to evaporate out of fresh pine resin, so resin is processed commercially by heating in a still. Those who aren't trying to collect the turpentine just cook it off in an open pot.<br /><br />I ordered some rosin from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/595646384/powdered-pine-resin-pine-tree-rosin">Creekwood Naturals</a> for experimentation. This product arrives as a coarse, sandy powder. It becomes sticky when wet, but it seems to be waterproof.<br /><br />My first experiments went thusly: I dissolved some rosin in rubbing alcohol and let it evaporate to a thick, syrupy consistency that could be painted onto a scrap of sanded poplar plank. For comparison, I also smeared some fresh pine resin on the wood, alongside rubber cement. On top of all three adhesives I pressed a tiny swatch of chamois, then let the substances dry.<br /><br />The fresh resin took the longest to dry. After several days, all three swatches peeled off easily. The resin was still slightly sticky under the leather; the rosin brittle; the rubber cement, well, rubbery.<br /><br />I'd heard that beeswax is often used in rosin-based pitch glues to reduce the rosin's brittleness, so my next test used a mix of alcohol-rosin varnish reduced to a syrup and a bit of Sno Seal, which is emulsified beeswax used to waterproof shoes. This did not work out at all. The mix took forever to dry, and wasn't sticky enough.<br /><br />Giving up on emulsions, I decided to try a hot glue. I shaved some beeswax into a metal bowl and, working by eye, added about two to three times its volume in rosin, then slowly melted the bowl's contents with a heat gun. At first, the beeswax melted while the rosin turned into a sticky mess, but with prolonged heating and stirring with a brass rod, the mixture became uniform. (It also released fumes that stung my eyes, and when hot enough, began to smoke.) Then I smeared a little onto the poplar and quickly stuck the chamois swatch onto it.<br /><br />I repeat: Wow! Once cool, the glue bonded the chamois to the wood with immense strength. When I tried to peel it, the leather itself ripped up before the glue failed. I can dent the glue with my nail, but it's not sticky, and even though it's mostly rosin, it more resembles very hard, dark beeswax.<br /><br />It seemed perfect, but now was time for the real test.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yiXmaMt6aIc/X1J-8jebL_I/AAAAAAAABhw/bcw0ZgnTgWgtVZbTf5qJVM7nnhCdoBvqwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/hot%2Bglues.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yiXmaMt6aIc/X1J-8jebL_I/AAAAAAAABhw/bcw0ZgnTgWgtVZbTf5qJVM7nnhCdoBvqwCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/hot%2Bglues.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>Earlier, I'd ordered <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/154066558806?ViewItem=&item=154066558806">a piece of pitch glue</a> to try to glue the wooden halves of a scabbard core together. It was tricky. I warmed the glue, pinched off thin bits and laid them on the edges of one half, then melted them with the heat gun and quickly pressed the halves together. Then I had to heat each edge in turn and press it more tightly, and scrape off or press down the lumps of glue sticking out of the seam. I also had to shoot the heat gun into the scabbard, then stick the blade in to force any inward-protruding lumps aside and keep a good fit.<br /><br />When it came time to apply the facing, I melted the entire bowl of rosin-beeswax mix, let it cool to a consistency sort of like room-temperature corn syrup, and smeared it as evenly as possible on the core with the brass rod in one-inch stages. I melted it again with the heat gun, then pressed on the leather. When each half of the facing had been applied, I heated the whole face evenly and pressed it against a flat surface to try to smooth out the lumps of glue that had built up underneath. The result was still somewhat lumpy. Finally, I stitched up the facing with linen thread in a double-running stitch, and trimmed off the excess.<br /><br />My heavy reliance on a heat gun does call into question the practicality of this kind of glue in period. Trying to do the same thing over open flames might well be difficult, as may trying this method on a larger, more complex scabbard such as one for an akinakes. Nonetheless, when the time comes, this will be what I try.<br /><br />I have no doubt that this glue will prove waterproof. Even if it becomes slightly sticky in the rain, the idea of it bleeding through the leather is inconceivable to me. To my mind, the real test will be whether it softens after a few hours in the hot sun, for which purpose I'll have to wait for the right weather.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sqpRB1kLzQ4/X1KA7g8-xYI/AAAAAAAABh8/bywR9GJxWqsksGZf9wihqERbREKZiayKgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/hot%2Bglues%2B2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sqpRB1kLzQ4/X1KA7g8-xYI/AAAAAAAABh8/bywR9GJxWqsksGZf9wihqERbREKZiayKgCLcBGAsYHQ/w400-h300/hot%2Bglues%2B2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>As for the letter opener itself: The blade is another full-tang dagger blade from Atlanta Cutlery, with maple scales and steel pins. I did reshape the tang to be a little more like a classic Luristan dagger, but while it affects a Near Eastern Iron Age look and I'm using it as a test bed for period materials, I don't believe this object bears sufficient resemblance to any Achaemenid-period dagger to warrant actually using it at reenactments. (I would, however, love to be proven wrong.)<br /><br />As an aside, I've bought four Windlass Steelcraft blades this year, and their geometry seems to have worsened compared to my previous purchases, with slightly thinner spines and much thicker, squared edges that will take forever to sharpen.<br /><br />The scabbard, with its central ridge, straight lines down the edges (here interpreted as facing seams), and rounded tip without a chape, is modeled after those shown in Neo-Assyrian art such as the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sculpted_reliefs_depicting_Ashurbanipal,_the_last_great_Assyrian_king,_hunting_lions,_gypsum_hall_relief_from_the_North_Palace_of_Nineveh_(Irak),_c._645-635_BC,_British_Museum_(16722368932).jpg">Lion Hunt of Ashurbanipal</a> and at the <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Relief_B_-_Palace_of_Sargon_II,_Khorsabad_-_Oriental_Institute_Museum,_University_of_Chicago_-_DSC07535.JPG">Palace of Sargon II</a>. Its core is made from American commercial poplar (tulipwood), probably yellow poplar, which is simply the low-end hardwood we usually get in my part of the country.<br />Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4224143309483459799.post-84145072641406519482020-08-22T06:25:00.000-07:002020-08-22T06:25:27.298-07:00Making a leather pocket, part II and lastStitching on the bottom panel went faster than I expected, and by Noon yesterday I was able to get to work on the final steps.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hlZpkESw21w/X0EWrl4upVI/AAAAAAAABgw/Oj_UDAajwVIJxe6s0Zn7kvg9T3ws8pQNwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/slicing.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="307" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hlZpkESw21w/X0EWrl4upVI/AAAAAAAABgw/Oj_UDAajwVIJxe6s0Zn7kvg9T3ws8pQNwCLcBGAsYHQ/w410-h307/slicing.jpg" width="410" /></a></div>The original had, as far as I can guess from the photos, eight slits on each side for the drawstring. I spaced my markings out 7/8 inch (22mm) apart and wound up with nine on each side. However, this was a miscalculation; since the drawstring should start and finish on the outside, the final pair went unused. I made the slits with a fresh pointed X-Acto blade, pushed through against a wood "working" block. Older blades tend to break at the very tip, leaving the point squared-off - even if the squaring is so tiny that it looks pointed, it's not as good at piercing. Working by eye, I made each slit around 5/8 inch (16mm) tall and spaced 5/8 inch from the top edge. After penciling a guideline on the rough side, but otherwise working freehand, I added the decorative piercings below the drawstring slits with a hobby awl. They weren't very visible, so I enlarged them with a thicker round scratch awl.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EGnMPbzSe1w/X0EbH19ujPI/AAAAAAAABhc/7G3IXEtd-6sZfX_E1KBWXpRCw_f7NKmoQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/complete%2Bopen.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="900" height="512" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EGnMPbzSe1w/X0EbH19ujPI/AAAAAAAABhc/7G3IXEtd-6sZfX_E1KBWXpRCw_f7NKmoQCLcBGAsYHQ/w384-h512/complete%2Bopen.jpg" width="384" /></a></div>The final touch is a drawstring, in the form of a German buckskin thong from Crazy Crow, of which I have several, so I selected the thickest (some of them seem much too thin for this purpose). It may be better to replace it with something less stretchy later. A wool or soft linen/hemp string about a quarter-inch thick might work well here, though I might worry that they would wear at the chamois. The German buckskin has the same texture and softness as the chamois, so my guess is they should wear at each other at about the same rate.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4aXDZMe3H_M/X0EbaV9tOII/AAAAAAAABhk/bH-KksOvFmUQliRkIyswqmz0-8-U53KjwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1200/complete%2Bclosed.jpg" style="display: block; padding: 1em 0px; text-align: none;"><img alt="" border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1200" height="375" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4aXDZMe3H_M/X0EbaV9tOII/AAAAAAAABhk/bH-KksOvFmUQliRkIyswqmz0-8-U53KjwCLcBGAsYHQ/w500-h375/complete%2Bclosed.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></div>Dan D'Silvahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14897778995901993975noreply@blogger.com0