Well, Plataea 2022 ended on Saturday and although there's a lot to be said, I'm limiting myself to some observations to bear in mind about all the stuff I brought out there:
- A four-inch-wide (internal), eight-foot-long PVC pipe with caps held on by duct tape makes a very protective package for spears, but it's so heavy and awkward (particularly when you already have two suitcases and a rifle case with your bows and arrows in it), and expensive to ship, that I wound up leaving both it and all my spears spears with other reenactors who felt they'd have a use for them and less difficulty/expense transporting them. I will not travel with spears in the future. If I send any more to Greece, I'll send them well ahead of time by the cheapest service available and leave them with a trusted friend.
- Under the (to my Pennsylvanian standards) quite aggressive heat and sun, the film of linseed oil-beeswax sealer I applied on top of the oil paint on my crescent shield softened and rubbed off. Specifically, the area on top of the dark red ochre-painted part of the shield; the area on top of the white edge was somewhat more resistant (presumably because the film is transparent and the dark paint heated up in the sun faster). The same mixture used as a paint binder on my new gorytos was also more resistant, but did soften after prolonged exposure, allowing thicker bits to be scraped off. The rosin-beeswax glue attaching the leather facing of my new akinakes scabbard also softened. By contrast, anything treated, bound or sealed with only linseed oil or rosin (the ochre paint on the shield, the spear handles, and the sinew wrappings of my arrows) were all fine. So basically anything containing beeswax was in danger of melting.
- The buff leather weapon belt performed admirably. The chrome-tanned belt sagged and became uncomfortable. I'm not sure whether this is because the holes I punched in the buff belt allowed it to be laced tighter or because it's a thicker leather, but I suspect both. The belt being nice and snug was definitely helpful.
- As I suspected, the smaller bow and commensurately smaller gorytos and arrows were much easier to carry. The search for an accurately Classical-styled bow of less than 36 inches strung continues.
- The 1/2-inch-thick wooden crescent shield is at least as heavy as larger wicker ones in the same style. This, too, needs improvement. I also threw together a round wicker mat with pelta-style grips and a suede facing, which at 16 inches in diameter (about the size of the smallest Scottish targes, and barely large enough to cover my arm from elbow to knuckles with fingers closed around the handgrip) is so light I barely notice I'm wearing it, but I'd have felt much, much better about it if it were crescent-shaped.
- A 12-ounce ceramic bottle, while convenient to carry, is only around a quarter as much water as I need to drink over the course of a Greek midsummer day in the field. Also, water left out becomes as hot as the surrounding air in just a few hours. What I wound up doing was to take a two-liter plastic bottle of water and keep it overnight in the hotel minifridge where it half-froze, wrapped it in spare clothing and kept it in my tent in my suitcase. That way I could still at least refill my ceramic bottle with slightly cool water by the end of the day. A proper cooler with ice blocks would've been better.
- Food must be kept elevated or it will be invaded by ants. A table of some kind, a crate, a box, anything will help.
A guide to the Achaemenid Persian empire for reenactors, focusing on the Graeco-Persian Wars period. A quick guide to Persian history, society, religion, military, clothing and culture, plus links to reenactment groups and commemorations of the 2,500th anniversary of the Graeco-Persian Wars.
Wednesday, August 3, 2022
Various practical addenda from Plataea 2022
Labels:
beeswax,
bow,
bow case,
bowcase,
crescent shield,
food,
gorytos,
gorytus,
oil paint,
paint,
pelta,
reenactment,
rosin,
shield,
spear,
taka,
water bottle
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